Saturday, August 6, 2011

Misc Notes (July 2011)

Bouchard Pere & Fils, Volnay Premier Cru, Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot, 2004

It's tempting to call any '04 which performs well a "good effort for the vintage", and I'm going to let myself slide easily into that cliche: this is an enjoyable wine, but although it possesses decent structure, said structure is sorely over-emphasized by bitter, green tannins (which are tempered by air, but not enough) - while the red fruit and underbrush on the nose are tainted by a metallic streak. So the balance isn't very good, but it puts in a decent show - for the vintage. Second cliche: some food helps nudge it along nicely. (July 3, 2011)

WineRoute, about 220 NIS, as I recall.

Moreau-Naudet, Chablis Premier Cru, Montee de Tonnerre, 2006

A powerful wine with a dense structure, complemented by a pungent, stony nose, with layers of citrus peels. I only tasted Moreau-Naudet extensively once, and based on that tasting, I believed the wines needed age to show well, yet this is already in a good place (intense and burly, yet open enough to express Chablis typicity) and I will make a note to also open up my Montmains this year. (July 6, 2011)

Giaconda, 190 NIS.

Koehler-Ruprecht, Pfalz, Kalstadter Steinacker, Scheurebe Spatlese, 2007

Pink grapefruit and guayavas, with a gentle hint of salinity on the finish. Lovely. (July 8, 2011)

Giaconda, 117 NIS.

Emrich-Schonleber, Nahe, Monzinger Halenberg, Riesling Spatlese, Trocken, 2006

This was very aggressive and jejune three years ago, but now it's shining through with great clarity and purity. There is lovely green apple tinged fruit, with a hint of sweetness on both nose and palate and a long, dry, cerebral finish. Great lightness on the palate. As it opens, I find hints of minerals and summer fruits on the nose. (July 9, 2011)

Giaconda, 170 NIS.

J.J. Prum, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Wehlener Sonnenhur, Riesling Kabinett, 2007

It's Prum, a young Prum, and I don't know what to make of it. A melange of summer fruits and peel, ripe and tropical yet very light and elegant. There's a note of bitter peels which is a bit distracting. A hint of reduction appears later on, but it's an appealing kind. I keep a third for the next day, which I hardly ever do, and now it's still ripe, and that bitter note is still there. I guess it's true you can't drink a young Prum, although I'd read that this specific Kabinett was drinking nicely. (July 11, 2011)

Giaconda, 150 NIS

A. Et. P. De Villaine, Cote Chalonnaise, La Fortune, 2009

The fruit profile is deep red, ranging just to the border of the black half of the spectrum, complemented by earthy, mildly spicy notes. Round, with very soft tannins. (July 15, 2011)

Tomer Gal, 110 NIS.

Marcel Lapierre, Morgon, 2009

Very fruity, at first, with very soft tannins and little in the way of non-fruity nuances. Then, after an hour or so, there are spicy, earthy notes vaguely reminiscent of, well, Pinot, the palate starts to exert its grip and even the color turns from purple to Bourgogne red. Throw in a hint of blood and juicy salinity, why dontcha? (July 17, 2011)

Tomer Gal, 130 NIS.

Dr. Loosen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Wehlener Sonnenhur, Riesling Kabinett, 2009

Ah, this is much like my previous notes. Very young, almost grapey, just starting to show hints of minerals. (July 22, 2011)

WineRoute, about 95 NIS on discount.

Chereau Carre, Chateau du Chasseloir, Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, 2009

A simple treat, comprised mostly of lime and saline minerals. Dry and crisp. (July, 22, 2011)

WineRoute, about 50 NIS.

Rebholz, Pfalz, Im Sonnenschein, Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Trocken, 2006

This is somewhat challenging. The nose shows the vibrancy and depth of a Riesling entering its maturity: apples, peaches, green tea, a hint of kerosene and a mineral essence that starts as wet stone and broadens and focuses at the same time. The palate finishes on a nice saline note and is where the challenge lies: whereas my favorite Riesling play out like Charlie Parker, with weird curlicues of flavors, this is more of a zipped version of Coltrane: overlapping sheets of flavors, compressed so there's no linear development, just a knot of flavors that you have to decipher on your own. (July 23, 2011)

Giaconda. This is one time my memory fails me regarding one of my bottles: I think it cost in the mid 200's, but I'm not quite sure.

Ogier, Cote Rotie, 2001

This is it. This wine is officially the final chapter of my birthday celebrations. And a minor knockout it certainly is. Classic in the way the cassis shifts into black pepper and bacon, and very deft in its finesse and balance. Juicy and savory, with a depth that defies its light, feminine touch.

About 50 USD at MacArthur.


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