Fat Guy Strikes Again

Tondonia in winter

I'd been waiting for some time to taste Eldad Levy's's new Spanish portfolio.

R. Lopzez de Heredia, Vina Tondonia, Rioja Reserva,  2001

Word had it that this is a long distance runner and might need more time, and, for my tastes, while it's in a very good place already, it's still in a grumpy phase where it seems to talk about the cave and barrels it was raised in more than about the land where the grapes came from. For me, it's quite alright, as the barrels and caves are part of the heritage, but I look forward to further developments. Anyway, an intense nose, with sweet (as opposed to ripe) fruit that starts red and morphs into black, embroidered by hints of balsam and spices. The palate is sweet on the attack with a saline, savory, yet grainy finish. Oscillating between soft and grainy, it develops into a rich fullness, one that doesn't broach the line into senseless extravaganza, staying balanced and classy. (May 9, 2013)

Needs more time, not to soften and open up so much as to settle down. How much time? Anywhere between two and fifteen years.

Questions. Doubts. The Gran Reserva Blanco '91 was really great, but does this Reserva hint that its big brother, the Gran Reserva red, could be as great as Ygay or La Rioja Alta 890? I'm not quite sure yet.

235 NIS.

Ossian, Castilla y Leon, 2010

I was surprised to find this Verdejo weights in at 14.5% ABV, because it would usually signal a style not exactly up Eldad's alley. But the alcohol is rather well held in check, giving the body weight, roundness and creaminess, rather than burning on the finish. Stylistically, it's not unlike the Austrian Gruner Veltliners he carries, with a mix of herbs and minerals on the nose belying the ripeness of the palate. It seems to require at least some cellaring, although I hesitate to mention that, because the winery's PR machine is broadcasting hints that are too obvious (and I can't promise my thinking wasn't affected): old, pre-Phyxollera wines, Burgundian techniques. Only time will tell whether the marriage of technique and variety was too forced, but it's certainly a very interesting wine and worth a try. (May 10, 2013)

199 NIS.

Catching Up With Friends (May 7, 2013)

My wife and I had a fun evening catching up with Tzora's Eran Pick and his wife at Bertie, where a well known local mystery was the backdrop of the conversation.

Weingut Wittman, Rheinhessen, Westhofener Aulerde, Großes Gewächs, Riesling , 2007

Since my experience with German Rieslings is basically limited to the Giaconda portfolio, I hesitate to generalize, but Rheinhessen seems to me to be the most mineral-laden of the major regions in Germany, and this Geology 101 exhibit would present solid (pun intended) proof of my conjecture. Other than that bedrock of minerals, it's very balanced and tasty and decently complex - not enough to truly captivate or throw into a swoon (probably because it's missing a sense of tension that it conveyed when it was younger), but an interesting companion to the food and conversation.

My wine. Giaconda, 260 NIS.

Domaine de l'Aurage, Cotes de Castillon, 2009

This is a side project owned by the Mitjavile family, owner of  the well known and respected St. Emilion property Tetre Roteboeuf. The Merlot is very obvious here in this quite primary wine. Besides being a well-made wine (that is not over-ripe or over-extracted) and quite tasty, it sparks a fit of jealousy on my part: while I love the big names in Bordeaux, we all know how expensive they are. Yet in Israel we hardly ever get any relatively inexpensive wines from the lesser appellations from Bordeaux, and if we do, they are invariably Medocs or Bordeaux Superiors that are force fed to WineRoute by their negociants. This, on the other hand, is truly a good value if you can get it before the Chinese hear about it.

About 35 Euros. Eran's wine.

Taking Care Of Business (Apr. 2013)

Act 1: Drinking in Israel

Clos du Marquis, St. Julien, 2000

It's amazing to consider that when I bought this bottle, Adam wasn't even born. So I've been cellaring the Clos du Marquis for almost 10 years. I had it a month or so ago and that bottle seemed smooth and innocent and felt like it could keep for years, but without a lot of room for improvement. This, on the other hand, seems like it could improve over the next few years. Whatever, this is a classic claret, cedar-y and earthy, yet somehow without quite the finesse I'd expect from a St. Julien. It starts out harsh, before a sliver of sleekness starts to dominate. It never really winds up too modern, God forbid, and there's decent complexity and depth in there - although I do wish it was more savory. The last third, three hours or so after uncorking, is the best - yet this is one time I enjoyed the destination more than the voyage. (Apr. 5, 2013)

I only ever bought two vintages of the Clos du Marquis from WineRoute. The 1999 was the first Bordeaux I ever bought and it cost 160 NIS. This 2000 probably cost about 200 NIS. By now, recent vintages go for 350 plus NIS, as far as I recall.

Koehler-Ruprech, Pfalz, Kallstadter Saumagen, Riesling Auslese Trocken, 2005

Tasting the 2004 version seven years ago was where I feel in love with German Riesling. Can anything live up to such an epiphany? Not in this case. Maybe it's a bad bottle, but the oxidative notes here, while interesting in their own right, maim and kill whatever complexity and depth this wine should possess. The color is also on the dark side for a relatively young Auslese. On the palate, I find surprisingly lively fruit with clean acidity, but  not a lot of interest, at least not given my level of expectations from the vineyard, predikat and vintage. (Apr. 6, 2013)

Giaconda, about 150 NIS.

R. Lopez de Heredia, Vina Tondonia, Gran Reserva Rosado, 2000

Rosé as sherry? This bodega is probably the only one in Rioja (or anywhere for that matter) to label a rosé Gran Reserva and release it after ten-plus years. Weird shit for sure.

This is a very oxidized style of wine, even though I don't know how much this single bottle is representative of what this wine should offer. The first impression is of carmelized cashews, but then there's a pungent strain of sulphur growing stronger, that reminds me of the 1991 Gran Reserva Blanco I had on my last birthday. The palate is bone dry, with strawberry flavors you have to almost reach out for. This isn't what most people have in mind when they think of a rosé, and I actually think it smells and tastes more like an orange wine. Whatever, it's certainly worth the 20 pounds or so that I paid for it, even if only as an experience, and I might buy it again (or whatever vintage is on sale), the next time I'm in London. (Apr. 7, 2013)

Purchased at Fortnum and Mason for about 20 GBP.

Club des Sommeliers (Chateau de Hureau), Saumur-Champigny, Grand Reserve, 2010

Club des Sommeliers is apparently a negociant that packages wines from all over France for local supermarket consumption. And if you pay attention to the small letters on the label, you can find some amazing bargains, as I found out when I picked this up for 10 Euros at a Parisian suburb, because the label almost obscures the fact that this is a basic bottling by famous Saumur-Champigny producer Chateau du Hureau; which, coincidently, was the first Loire producer I ever tasted. And this is a charming wine, quite reminiscent of that initial Loire encounter, showing fresh red currants, that feel as though they had just been plucked off the tree, aptly framed by notes of lead pencil and a tobacco leaves. Not especially deep or complex, and arguably a little dilute before it builds up a lithe body in glass, but it's really tasty and deftly structured, once it fills out. (Apr. 8, 2013)

10 Euros. A bargain, didn't I say that already? This would be my house wine if I were living in France.

Tardieu-Laurent, Crozes-Hermitage, Les Lauzières, 2010

This is another supermarket bottling I bought on the strength of the producer, in this case Tardieu-Laurent, who's never disappointed me in the past. This is loosely structured and on the short side, but it properly displays typically languid and peppery Crozes fruit. Considering the price, this is remarkable QPR (at least in Israeli terms), even if it's not nearly as distinctive as the Saumur-Champigny above or one of the Graillot Crozes. (Apr. 9, 2013)

12 Euros.

Bodegas Faustino, Rioja Gran Reserva, 1999

On the one hand, this seems more mature then previous bottles, on the other hand, it's also oakier. But as is usually the case with Rioja, it's a nice oak, embellishing earthy red fruit, and the tannic finish leaves a very savory aftertaste. I still think it needs more cellar time. (Apr. 11, 2013)

Domaine Sylvain Gaudron, Vouvray, Moelleux, 2011

A tasty wine, without a lot of frills or complexity. The nose is somewhat reminiscent of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with smoky tropical fruit that's a cross of melons and pineapples. The palate is rounder and sweeter than a Kiwi might be, though, so typicity is assured. The saline finish assures my attention, as does a note of sculptor clay, even if there's nothing very memorable about the structure, and even if the whole package is borderline over-seductive. (Apr. 13, 2013)

About 12 Euros in a tourist trap in the Loire. It's amazing what great QPR you can find if there's no middle man or shipping costs to be paid.

Drinking Grivot is its own reward

Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanee, 2005

The fruit is on the subtle side, although still fresh - abetted by forest floor, as well as sweat and meat - with unexpected austerity for a 2005 (not closed so much as pouting and impetuous), until tannin and fruit fan out softly to produce a velvety mouth-feel with a delicately spicy finish. This is just about all I expect from a Grivot villages wine: an overachiever that is typical of both the terroir and the house style. (Apr. 14, 2013)

Burgundy Wine Collection, 250 NIS.

Leitz, Rheingau, Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck, Riesling Spätlese, 2004

I wound up buying quite a lot of this perennial favorite. It's in perfect balance now, showing the most harmony and poise yet. If I were God and had to invent apples from scratch, I'd base them on a pretty Riesling such as this: the lithe, yet languid fruit perfectly framed by cool, nuanced touches of minerals and spices. (Apr. 15, 2013)

Giaconda, 150 NIS.

Act 2: Drinking in Bedford, MA

Domaine Tissot, Jura, Arbois, Poulsard Vieilles Vignes, 2010

Poulsard is a wine I've wanted to taste for a couple of years, if only to mark it down as an experience - and an interesting one it is. This smells like a funky, dusty Bourgogne, only even more pungent, and the palate is so tart at first it would make even a lover of lean Burgundies flinch. It remains tart, even as air rounds out its figure, and at the end it is no minor battle to get through it, an interesting novelty though it is. (Apr. 18, 2013)

20 USD.

Jean-Paul Thevenet, Morgon, Vieilles Vignes, 2010

Holy cow, I'm so glad I buy Thevenet whenever I can. This has a mineral and undergrowth laden nose that can go toe to toe with the best that the Cote de Beaune can offer at twice the price. The palate is equally gratifying and detailed, with silky, soft tannins and a lightly pungent finish. Truly one of the most spectacular, albeit young, Beaujolais Crus I've ever tasted. (Apr. 19, 2013)

Gordon Wines, 34 USD.

Chateau de Hureau, Saumur-Champigny, Tuffe, 2009

You can understand why I was eager for another shot at Hureau, since I loved the basic supermarket bottling. Thus, I bought this at Gordon Wines at Waltham, but the bottle was corked. So, as soon as the siege on the Chechnian terrorists was over, I went back to Waltham replace it. And my efforts were repaid in full. This has the same fresh red fruit as the supermarket bottling, the same trappings of tobacco leaves and lead pencil, only the "elegance" and "finesse" knobs have been turned up quite a few notches, and the overall effect is both purer and more focused, while at the same time more intense and pungent. Lovely. (Apr. 20, 2013)

Gordon Wines, 18 USD. Great QPR!

Champalou, Vouvray Sec, 2011

I bought this to get my senses around another Vouvray producer (this makes five), and it's a tasty, minor treat. Based on my limited experience, I'd say it's quite typical, with melons and a hint of Atlantic salt and sculptor clay on the nose. Savory and refreshing, with a saline finish - and a mineral essence that grows more intense with air, powerful, yet graceful as well. (Apr. 21, 2013)

Gordon Wines again, 20 USD.

Domaine Faury, Saint Joseph, 2009

A quite simple, yet gratifying and typical drop. Black pepper  and black currant on the nose, languid Syrah fruit, juicy acidity, soft tannins and a saline finish. Lazily structured without a lot of serious intent. (Apr. 22, 2013)

27 USD.

The man behind the Wylie-Fenaughty

Edmunds St. John, Wylie-Fenaughty, Syrah, 2010

Here's another producer I've been wanting to taste for a long time. The lively, succulent fruit makes a good first impression on the palate, belying the initially closed nose, which just shows traces of stone at first, before blooming into a complex, very pretty picture. As it opens, it displays a ripe, although not overly so, lithe frame, with notes of black pepper and bacon, not unlike a Cote Rotie, and that mineral overlay I spoke of. There's a good balance here-  juicy acidity abetted by savory, slightly sweet tannins - with good potential. Really fun, tasty stuff, that really lived up to my expectations. (Apr. 23, 2012)

Final wine from Gordon Wines on this trip, 33 USD.

Epilogue: Back In Israel

Jean Paul et Benoit Droin, Chablis Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre, 2007

Oxidized enough to somewhat obscure the  Chablis signature at first - the tell-tale sea shell aromas are there, they just need coaxing, while the palate is not as fresh and vibrant as I'd expected, although it does pick up intensity and definitions with air, as the fruity acidity comes to the fore. I'm not sure where it's going. I like it well enough now (the oxidation might work against Chablis typicity and would be more appropriate in a Cote de Beaune white with a decade more under its belt, but still it lends complexity and interest), but I suspect this bottle doesn't have a long life expectancy. (Apr. 27, 2013)

Giaconda, 170 NIS.

A. et P. de Villaine, Cote Chalonnaise Blanc, Les Clous, 2008

I thought I'd drunk up the last bottle, so this is a nice surprise, especially as it's in a very good place: flint and dry grass framing fruit that's caught in a limbo between apples, pears and oranges. Nothing overly complex on the palate, just pleasant harmony, saline inflected tastiness and a sense of place. (Apr. 28, 2013)

Burgundy Wine Collection, about 120 NIS.

Bourgogne Crown Whites (Apr. 2, 2013)

Alain Chavy -
who made the tasting's wine of the night

This just about completes my overview of this boutique importer. Due diligence time again: co-owners Daniel Lifshitz and Dan Roman are good friends (but I've already written that in the past). Having said that: guys, this is the fourth post I've devoted to you over the last few months. I'm giving it a rest now.

But I'm always open to bribes...

This tasting had more misses than its red counterpart. I've stated my mistrust of white Burgundy before, so you could say I'm biased.

Of course, you could also say this proves me right.

Domaine Hubert Lamy St. Aubin, La Princee, 2011

Opens slowly to show lime, grass, nuts, some hints of oak. Good acidity on the palate but the fruit is still dromant. Lovely potential, but I rather liked it more at home. 190 NIS.

Domaine Matrot, Meursault, 2010

Typical Meursault on the nose, with notes of chalk, clay and citrus taking it in in a less classical direction. Elegant on the palate, yet taut and edgy. Very young and not really approachable. 280 NIS.

Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault Vieilles Vignes, 2010

Interesting. A hint of guayava and citrus, subtler and deeper minerality. Purity of fruit on both nose and palate. Like all the wines so far, there is a fine bedrock of acidity in here. 300 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin Premier Cru, Clos du Meix, 2010

Enter the true Bourgogne. Lovely reductive stink and notes of Atlantic salt on both nose and palate. Energetic grip. I fervently checked my emails to Daniel on my iPhone during the tasting to make sure I bought a bottle - how's that for an informal score? 280 NIS.

Domaine Alain Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Folatieres, 2010

Like the previous wine, this proves how obvious the inherent quality of a Premier Cru can be. Restrained tropical fruit and a stinky mineral note not unlike the Clos du Meix. A winner, this is a white Bourgogne that I'd buy. 360 NIS.

Domaine Matrot, Meursault Premier Cru, Charmes, 2010

Slightly oxidized on the nose, yet the palate is almost surprisingly fresh. Still, disappointing. 400 NIS.

Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault Premier Cru, Goutte d'Or, 2010

Corky. 500 NIS FWIW.

Domaine Rapet, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2010

Restrained yet mineral laden (sea salt to be preciset). Balanced and elegant. Sweet  fruit on the nose, yet saline on the palate (that sea salt again). A wine that thrives on innuendo. And delicious too! 600 NIS.

Domaine Alain Chavy, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, 2009

Subtle minerals. Very restrained. A wine to sip slowly. The Platonic ideal of Bourgogne whites. 1300 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, 2008

Opens slowly. Still burdened by oak, but there's a solid bedrock of fruit and minerals. The domaine only make half a barrel of this, so I should be grateful for a taste, I suppose, but it's still a disappointment coming after the Chavy Chevalier. And Daniel did open both hours and hours in advance. Not for sale, no price given.

Family Vacation In France

2GrandCru Jr. Flying High In Paris

When Efrat and I took the kids for a vacation in France, just about everyone I know expected me to have a lavish, wine-drenched tour. The harsh reality is it wasn't that kind of trip. I tasted only a handful of wines, in un-inspiring stemware to say the least, and the most enjoyable drink wound up being a cider from Normandy.

Nicolas Potel, Mercurey, 2011

Large producer, low rung appellation, good year, bad stemware, a blasé hotel dinner - yet I can still get earthy red fruit with a grainy mouthfeel and surprising purity. Decent plus, a serviceable generic Bourgogne without a lot of personality, which did a good job under mediocre circumstances. (Mar. 25, 2013)

10 Euro.

Langois-Chateau, Sumaur-Champigny, Vieilles Vignes, 2009

Closed, even from a bottle opened earlier in the morning (and bad stemware again). I get raspberries and tobacco leaves and a grainy mouthfeel. Rustic now, with a potential for medium plus complexity. (Mar. 28, 2013)

20 Euro.

Domaine Sylvain Gaudron, Voucray Demi-Sec 2009 and Moelleux 2011

Same bad stemware as the Langlois-Chateau, damn those tourist traps! Both are very much Vouvray and typical of their respective styles - albeit I'm concerned that the acidity is on the low side - and showing tropical fruit. Fun stuff, though, with decent depth. (Mar. 28, 2013)

About 10 Euros each.

Christophe et Anne Couturier, le Verger de Giverny, Cidre Fermier, Brut

The thing is that, while wine offers more than (and usually anything but) grape aromas and flavors, ciders are too heavily grounded in apples to inspire much contemplation or very wordy tasting notes. Or so I would guess. My experience is highly limited, and while the plan was to use our one day excursion to Normandy to somewhat expand my horizons, this one specimen is all I got around to trying. But it's a nice specimen, expanding upon and complexifying the apple aromatics with a lightly funky overlay. Nothing very deep or complex on the palate, just hearty fun. (Mar. 29, 2013)

Dominique Percereau, Touraine-Amboise, Prestige des Poupelines, 2008

According to the AOC rules, this should be a blend of Caberent Frnac, Gamay and maybe some Malbec: so, fresh raspberries from the Gamay and a hint of tobacco leaves from the Cabernet Franc is how it breaks down, I guess. Virtually no tannins to speak of at this point, just a silky mouthfeel and a spicy finish. Nice. (Mar. 29, 2013)

8-10 Euros.

Back At The Scene Of The Crime (Mar. 21, 2013)

The last time I was at Bertie, the evening was terribly fun, with great wines - but I had to pay the piper the next day, and the next, and the next, for months on. In short, my last visit was a short, blissful reverie before I discovered the terrible price of moving up into management.

I learned to cope with the position. I learned you sort of have to be the Fonz even when you're fucking up like Potsie.

Never mind. This one night, almost half a year later, was the closing of a circle. Even if I did spend a third of the time reading and answering work related emails.

Weingut Wittmann, Rheinhessen, Morstein GC, 2008

Dry Riesling? Yes! Minerals, lots of them, spices, apples, summer fruit and pits of all the former.  An intense wine, offering compelling grip and complexity. Ready to go, with a little air, and since I personally don't approve of cellaring whites with 14% ABV and above, I would open any of this that I have sooner rather than later.

Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Perrieres, 2005

At first I thought this proves my bias against buying, let alone aging, expensive white Burgundies, but this is an excellent, pleasurable wine, given enough air. It starts tight and oaky, then shows dried grass, flowers and minerals. Damned elegant.

Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac 5me Cru, 1995

This registers as a savory Left Banker from the first sniff: Cedar, minerals, very light brett, black fruit. The palate is still tannic and I rather expected more of it, but this offers plenty of reserved claret charm.

Fontebuoa, Brunello do Montalcino,  Riserva, 1997

I would have loved the GPL in its own right, and I would have thought I would have preferred a claret over a Brunello on any given day, but I found this a step up, or at least it proved a more immediate pleasure. There's nothing earth-shattering here, and in its way, it's a rather generic Brunello, but it's a succulent food wine with an interesting nose that shows cigar box, carpet dust, chives.

Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Barolo, Nei Cannubi, 2001

Italy again? Indeed. Rusty tannins. Dusty nose. A classic winner and a very archetypical Barolo.

Taking Care Of Business (Mar. 2013)

Another eclectic collection of mostly good, fun stuff

Koehler-Ruprecht, Pfalz, Kallstadter Samaugen, Riesling Auslese, 2001

There's a compelling, complex aromatic richness (quince, apples, a hint of kerosene and an even lighter trace of botrytis), that belies the finesse and elegance offered by both the bouquet and the palate. The sweetness is starting to recede, allowing a savory note to complement the finish. A convincing, idiosyncratic statement of vineyard and winemaker, that deftly balances sweetness and salinity. (Mar. 1, 2013)

Giaconda, about 160 NIS.

Avidan, Fringe, Pinot Noir, 2009

Ex-territorial Pinot fruit that someone had the good sense not to over-manipulate, so you get mellow red and black raspberries, with soft tannins that seem to disappear and re-appear on a whim. There's a trace of earthy herbs, and beyond that it's not really a very serious wine, but it's a tasty, handy wine to have around. (Mar. 2, 2013)

A. et P. de Villaine, Cote Chalonaise Rouge, La Digoine, 2008

A quite fragrant nose. Red fruit, flowers and sous de bois. This is a wine that needs time and air to fill out and come into focus, and so it's quite a while before the palate makes its proper impression on the taste buds: which is about sweet (but not cloying) Pinot fruit and a lean frame robed in silk that culminates in a fairly long, saline finish. (Mar. 2, 2013)

Burgundy Wine Collection, 140 NIS.

Domaine de la Vougeraie, Bourgogne, Terres de Famille, 2010

Even Tomer Gal's catalog says this is a wine for uncomplicated, fun drinking. And it's true, there's nothing very serious about it - just a fun and tasty drop, offering both an introduction to Burgundy and to the Vougeraie house style: crunchy, savory fruit with a mineral vein, a ripe, balanced acidity and a clean, saline finish. (Mar. 3, 2013)

Burgundy Wine Collection, 120 NIS.

La Bastide Blanche, Bandol, 2010

This is a hearty, old school wine, bold fruit with a touch of barnyard that morphs into meat and charcoal, with its 14.5% ABV thankfully not obvious. Its grainy, rusty tannins are balanced by the fat fruit - fat, not ripe - and I know I should have waited four-five more years, had my curiosity not gotten the best of me. (Mar. 4, 2013)

About 20 GBP.

A.F. Gros, Pommard Premier Cru, Pezzeroles, 2002

With its dark color and intense length, this is more of a showcase of extracting a decent cop out of Pinot Noir than it is about Bourgogne. Not the most terrible thing, but something in the makeup and flavors leaves me longing for a bit more of the profound, and this just isn't open-ended enough for that. (Mar. 8, 2013)

WineRoute, about 200 NIS.

Midbar Winery, 55, Red, 2008

The ripe currants and cranberries on the nose are nicely complemented by a pungent mineral streak, almost akin to gunpowder. Similarly, the palate keeps the 14.5% ABV and any ripeness in check. This cute Bordeaux blend is dominated by its 57% Merlot, coming across almost like a lean Right Banker. (Mar. 10, 2013)

Domaine de la Vougeraie, Cote de Beaune, Les Pierres Blanches, 2010

Ahhhh... this is why I love Bourgogne. Even at a relatively simple level of breed, depth and complexity, a good producer can produce such lovely results! This has black dainty black raspberries complemented by a lovely note of pungent earth. The palate is sappy and savory, well balanced by the acidity and silky tannins. The end result is eminently drinkable, and likable with not a hint of sycophancy. (Mar. 14, 2013)

Burgundy Wine Collection, 140 NIS.

Emrich-Schonleber, Nahe, Monzinger Halenberg, Riesling Spatlese, 2007

Starting out mute aromatically and overly broad on the palate (but even then, utterly delicious), it quickly shows mint, slate, chalk, apples  - the usual suspects, in other words. I shouldn't have yielded to temptation; as it emerges from its shell, it shows enough purity and finesse beneath the baby fat, as well as juicy, focused acidity, to hint at a promising future a few years down the road. (Mar. 15, 2013)

Giaconda, 160 NIS.

Recanti, Wild Carignan Reserve, 2010

Beneath a dense facade, laden with mineral, sanguine notes, is tasty, earthy black fruit, with meaty, savory tannins and lively acidity. I'm a fan, but judging by the indifferent reaction on the part of the neophytes round the table, I would cellar it for a couple of years before serving it to the uninitiated. (Mar. 16, 2013)

140-150 NIS.