This was not an easy tasting for me. Moreau-Naudet's wines are obviously of their place but the 2006's were too sullen to enjoy. See, I can't shake of my fears that a moody wine won't emerge in the future a bright and happy wine - and I like my Chablis quiet yet joyous. So I'll hope for the best. And certainly the Valmur 2002 was a wine worth waiting for.
Petit Chablis, 2007
Smells like a Chablis for sure with its citrus, chalk and sea shells; certainly tastes as good as a village, even if doesn't have the length or depth to keep the pretense up for long. Unoaked, and it shows.
Chablis, Les Pargues Vieilles Vignes, 2006
Even more than the Petit, the Les Pargues' nose is all I want in a Chablis: the truest expression of terroir, with aromas of sea shells and fossils that remind you of the area's underwater origins. Although the palate is noticeably longer and more intense than the Petit, there is an astringency that runs in parallel with the acidic backbone instead of being buffered by it. In short, too young and, as noted in my introduction, adolescently sullen. From ~50 year old vines.
Chablis Premier Cru, Vaillons, 2006
The nose is a step up, because the fruit, which leans towards peaches and apricots, is more generous. The oak is obvious on nose and palate, as is a vein of butter. This wine is where the adjective "brooding" first made its way into my notes, and although I find balance in its depths, it is less interesting the the Les Pargues and doesn't really go anywhere in particular during its time in glass.
Chablis Premier Cru, Forets, 2006
I do wish this tasting was better at highlighting the differences between the terroirs, but the Vaillons and the Forets were too much alike both stylistically and quality-wise. Except that whatever faults the two wines shared - subdued fruit leaving the spotlight to the alcohol - the Forets had brighter acidity and sharper focus.
Chablis Premier Cru, Montmains, 2006
Another tiny, weeny, teeny increment in quality over the previous Premier Crus. Better acidity, more graceful harmony. Best of all, it simply tastes better.
Chablis Premier Cru, Montee de Tonnerre, 2006
A more discernable increment in quality, while not wandering far afield style-wise, this is the most elegant and, perhaps, aloof, of the Premiers. Lovely.
Chablis Grand Cru, Valmur, 2006
When you finally reach Grand Cru territory in a difficult tasting like this, you expect a payoff and I finally got one. This is like God turned the dial and suddenly everything is in focus and you can sniff subtle nuances floating before you. Besides that, the much greater extract makes the palate easier to approach.
Chablis Grand Cru, Valmur, 2002
Home run! All the sea-side aromas the previous wines display have morphed into a lovely stink and a savory palate that is Burgundian - and Chablis - to an extreme.
Not for sale.
One surprise dessert:
Bourillon d'Orleans, Vouvray, Moeulleux, Art Monia, 2003
I don't want to write about this wine. I mean, I love it and I've drunk it a lot and written a lot of notes about it. But it depresses me to consider that I didn't have the patience - or, let's face it, fridge space - to cellar it. So now it's all gone at home and I had to by another one, knowing one more is not enough and I'll probably drink it too early, too.
About 130 NIS.