Niepoort, Bairrada, Vinhas Velhas, Bical Maria Gomez, 2017
I guessed Bairrada. I get smart that way every now and then. The lemon-tinged exoticism of the nose pointed to Portugal and the specific shape of the acidity - Bairrada. This is my third time drinking the V.V. and it's always a wine that needs time to open. It feels thin at first but is a lovely wine that rewards patience. I think Maria Gomez is in the blend to spike the acidity, but it's a component that needs air to flesh out.
Moric, Burgenland, Necken Markt, Blaufrankisch, Alte Reben, 2012
Paul Achs, Burgenland, Syrah, 2020
The last time I delved into Austrian reds was eight years ago. I really enjoyed the entry level reds but the premium wines seemed over-extracted, oaky. I drank the Necken Markt 2011 and thought the extraction was a... bit much. Assuming the 2012 started out life in the same mode, it seems this wine finds its legs after a decade. The nose belongs to the Syrah School Of Aromatics: blackberries, flowers, black pepper. The palate is seamless, so much for over-extraction. The acidity is low so it lacks the sheen that would compensate for its high asking price - Moric is enough of a star for this to sell at over 100 euros.
As for Achs, I drank a young Pinot at the same time period I'm talking about and it went for oak like it was a national flag. This is a much more balanced wine, fruity, floral, more Austrian than Syrah, if that proclamation could possibly have any bearing from someone who hasn't drunk an Austrian red in over half a decade. I liked the Syrah quite much, but not enough to Google the winery and find out whether there has been a stylistic change chez Achs that anyone else had noticed.
Patrick Jasmin, Cote Rotie, 2013
This needed more time, more air, which is generally what everyone says about the wine they bring, when it's not obviously damaged but still doesn't show well. Except it's true, a nine year old Cote Rotie is a nice idea that only works if it's the only wine of the night, and gets the time and space to shine. Here, the nose is still not fully fleshed out, but classic nonetheless: bacon, black pepper, flowers. The palate is at a nubile stage where the fruit is two steps ahead of the acidity and tannins. If the tannins had more rust and grip, it would have highlighted the sensuality of the fruit.
Joseph Roty, Gevrey Chambertin, 2014
Charmingly archetypical and sexy, but don't pop and pour, even now it needs time to get past a reductive, fleshy/sweet first act.
Roagna, Langhe Rosso, 2016
Textbook Nebbiolo, with a surprising note of rotisserie fat. It's part Barolo Cru Pira, part Barbaresco Cru Paje, so it must legally be declassified. I don't think it will ever shut down, so much I suspect that no one in my social circle will be generous or strong enough to set aside a bottle.
Patrick Baudouin, Coteaux du Layon, 1997
Coteaux du Layon is a Loire AOC dedicated to sweet wines from Chenin Blanc. The wines are usually deep orange hued and the acidity in warm vintages can rival Sauternes in the Nowhere Acidity League. At age twenty five, this competes with Pedro Ximinez for low acidity and wins - it's the least lively Loire dessert wine I've ever tasted and like PX, it's the same color as machine oil.
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