Sunday, February 10, 2008

Barcarola Gets A New Chef (Feb. 9, 2008)

Which means it took us over thirty minutes to get through our orders, interrogating the ever-suffering waitress very thoroughly about the ingredients of the dishes, in order to best match our wines. It's not as though Barcarola was ever an especially easy place for food-wine pairings, but it's just a case of the devil you know versus the new chef you don't.

Emrich-Schonleber, Nahe, Monzinger Halenberg, Riesling Spatlese Trocken, 2006

They say 2006 in Germany was a good year for hard working winemakers. As opposed to 2004, very effortless in its classic minerality and 2005, which had lovely, sensual fruit, that seemed touched with the grace of God. This wine, like a couple other 2006's I've tasted, seems like a hard working Lutheran: pure, strict and somewhat detached and brainy. There's a mixture of yeasts, pineapples then minerals on the nose, very primal and bold. The palate, however, is a bit unforgiving right now. There is plenty of lovely, young Riesling fruit - veering towards pineapple and peaches - and an acidity that just means business, giving way to a grapefruit-pip finish. But the components just don't coalesce and will require in my opinion at least 5 years worth of cellaring. I got the vintage right, messed up the region - I thought Rheingau, maybe Mosel or Pfaltz, but had totally written off the Nahe.

Imported by Giaconda, selling for 175 NIS. Good stuff, worth it.

Trimbach, Cuvee Fredrich Emile, Riesling, 2000

Maybe it's time I folded with Trimbach. Out of five more or less Grand Cru dry whites, three bombed - in a row, ending with this one. The nose has interesting an interesting mineral aspect I can't quite place: like an old dirt row covered with wax. I'm still trying to figure where the fruit was. Yet while the nose eventually released a few miserly fruit aromas, the palate was all structure, with simply not enough fruit. We gave it time, cooled it down, let it warm up, I would have put it in a particle accelerator if one was handy, but sometimes you just have to know when to let go.

"Imported" by my wife, personally, from Table and Vine, Springfield, MA, bought for about 40 USD. I'm very careful to write every detail down just so she won't buy it again by mistake.

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