Margalit, Special Reserve, 2003 (May 1, 2008)

I've just re-read my note for the 2001 Special Reserve and, man, seems like my palate has gone to "where no man has gone before" over the past five years. Now, if I do a hatchet job on this one as well, I'll really come off pretentious, won't I? What will 2GrandCru do?

Actually, it's a better wine than the 2001. But I still think it doesn't live up to the hype. The nose is typical Israeli Cabernet, ripe currants and spices, a hint of leather, and foreshadows the grainy, oaky texture of the mouth. It's balanced and fairly fresh and there is a very nice structure in there, but it fails in the ultimate test: it just doesn't taste all that good. Just too bitter and oaky and while there initially seems to be decent acidity to balance the fruit, it seems to fade back and avoids tackling the oak.