Domaine Wachau, Wachau, Dürnsteiner Liebenberg, Grüner Veltliner, Federspiel, 2021
A handy introduction to a winery that has finally made its way to Israel: a single vineyard located at the point where the Danube river makes a 90 degree turn south, giving the wines excellent exposure. The nose is shaded in green: green apples, green limes, green herbs. And something that evokes oyster shells and, later, chalk. Very balanced on palate, with just a touch of the bitter greenness of a young white. There’s not a lot of depth or complexity, at first, but its tight focus is impressive. Air endows it with texture and breadth, as well as a cornucopia of minerals, although not much depth is gained. (Nov. 25, 2022)
Domaine Wachau, Wachau, Terrassen, Grüner Veltliner, Smaragd, 2021
Smaragd is a higher pradikat, which places this wine a little higher in the winery's hierarchy, even though this is 'just' a regional wine. As the winery's site explains it, the idea behind the Terrassen series is this: "grapes from primary rock sites too tiny for a single vineyard wine are blended together." The depth is greater here, the aromas more refined: green lime again along with riper citrus fruit, minerals. A texture halfway between powerful and sculpted. (Dec. 3, 2022)
Domaine Bernard Baudry, Chinon, Le Clos Guillot, 2016
Wow, it's been almost eleven years since I first drank a vintage of this wine. Loire was almost non-existent in Israel when I bought a bottle from Chambers Street Wines. Then Wine Route started bringing Baudry, Eldad brought Amirault and Hureau, and that was it until Bourgogne Crown and Cheers started dipping their fingers in the pie a couple of years ago.
Over these eleven years, Baudry has lost its favor with me and I'm thus down to my last bottle. Maybe the wines just need time more time than I've given them, but to be honest, I find them often too bretty for my tastes and brett is not something I have a great urge to mature in my fridge. Luckily, I find no brett here, just red raspberries, earth and lead pencil, as well as a touch of minty herbs. There’s a richness on the nose that I'm happy to say is not as developed on the palate, instead there's a very handsome savoriness, along with sour cherries and excellent acidity. Then, the palate shuts down after two hours. I guess I opened it too early, but at least I avoided brett. (Nov. 26, 2022)
Girolamo Russo, Etna Bianco, Nerina, 2021
I'm about 30% on my way to be able to identify Etna whites blind. At their best, as here, we're talking about citrus fruit, a touch of melon, and a suggestion of smoke on the nose, same echoed on the palate with gorgeous acidity. This is a unique wine for Etna due to its varietal makeup: 75% Carricante from the Feudo contrada and then a blend of Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe planted in otherwise red grape vineyards in San Lorenzo and Calderara Sottana. A lovely, nuanced wine I would have liked to age further, but I don't think I'd risk more than two years, based on this one read and my limited experience with Etna Bianco in general. (Nov. 28, 2022)
Domaine Le Roc Des Anges, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes, Llum, 2021
A blend of Grenache Gris and Macabeu, not a blend I would personally exert myself to buy. Sour fruits I can't place: fig and lemon juice? (Nov. 29, 2022).Nov.
Roagna, Langhe Rosso, 2016
This is at the stage where it needs time to open, starting flat, even a little medicinal. With so many Mondial games I planned for it to accompany, it was easily awarded the two hours it needed to reveal its character: dry cherries, dry earth, dry truffles, dry roses, drying tannins. Complex aromatically, the palate is currently a few rungs down, basically because the finish is too dry to allow the flavors to fan out completely. Nonetheless, it shows the beauty of a young Piedmontese and also insinuates greater beauty to come. (Dec. 2, 2022)
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