Rachel Even, Nebbiolo, 2019
What a wonderful eye-opener from a local amateur winemaker! The fragrant nose is so true to the variety and keep getting more definition and depth as it airs: sour cherries, earth, tea, flowers. The finish is never very long, the body is lighter and the fruit core sweeter than Piedmont, but I think Rachel nailed the essence of Nebbiolo in 2019 with this very good wine.A few months ago, we paired the 2017 with against the regular Giovanni Rosso Barolo. Then, as now, Rosso was the better wine and the better buy. Look, they're both classic Barolos, in my opinion, but the Olivero is a little less classic, and less focused. I think it's just a little more overt. But the tarry earth and tea are charming. (Nov. 10, 2022)
Giovanni Rosso, Barolo Serralunga, 2017
Old World reserve, showing the feminine, floral side of Nebbiolo, a grape that has more sides that I can count. (Nov. 10, 2022)
Tzora, Shoresh Blanc, 2017
From a magnum. Lime and seashells. If you planted Sauvignon Blanc in a pretty good Puligny village cru, this is what you’d get. I miss some concentration and sometimes it feels like the oak is too much of an obvious crutch, but the format makes it drink like a three year old. A regular bottle should be ready to go. (Nov. 12, 2022)
Tzora, Judean Hills Blanc, 2021
A younger wine, a different blend, more oak due to youth, the same winemaking touch. I let the bottle air for hours and then got a very focused and structured Macon, no oak, very saline. One day I’ll age this wine. (Nov. 12, 2022)
Tzora, Shoresh, 2016
The last bottle of four or five, better than the one I had half a year ago. It's chunkier and richer than its claret forbears. The crushed rocks and pine needles on the nose are all Judean Hills. The tannins are still harsh at first, but nothing air doesn’t cure. They become rusty, savory and sweetish at the same time. Good acidity. A rich wine, all in all. (Nov. 12, 2022)
Suertes del Marqués, Tenerife, Valle de la Orotava, 7 Fuentes, 2019
90% Listan negro, 10% Tintilla. I think brett really ruined it for funky wines. Brett is the stink of the foul, of the continually unwashed. What we have here is the musk of the creased hand of a recently washed worker who went out for a few minutes to a hot, dusty orchard to pick some cherries. On the palate, the wine is driven by acidity and sour fruit. I have not yet visited the island, but I will revisit this wine. It's highly enjoyable.
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