I regularly drink two Barolo houses that have both Barolo and Barbaresco holdings, Castello di Verduno and Oddero. Naturally, one looks to see how much Barolo has seeped into their Barbarescos. Both come from relatively elegant Barolo villages, so I, for one, don't find a big contrast in styles. This is especially true of the Oderro Gallina, seeing as it's one of the archetypical crus of Neive, whose wines are stereotyped as the most Barolo of all Barbarescos. The nose here has the darker character of Barolo - by that, I don't mean that the fruit is black, but rather that the core personality is tar and black tea. It's remarkably drinkable, with tannins that ring heavy and bass-like, but not rasping. The acidity is well integrated.
Steinmetz, Mosel, Kestener Paulinoshofberg, Riesling GK, 2020
The G in "GK" is supposedly a nod, as good as a wink, to the fact that this could well have been a Grosses Gewaches, had Stefan Steinmetz decided to join the VDP. Stylistically, though, it comes off, for me, as a feinherb that works out regularly at the gym. It's complex aromatically, with plenty of upside, while the palate has the clean depth of a Spatlese, just less obvious sweetness. I guess not being a member of the VDP has its advantages, as Stefan is not bound to producing a bona fide GG, but instead has room to find the pinpoint balance for what he wants to express. The aromas are perfectly echoed on the palate: apple skins, rocks, flint, lime and, finally notes of basil and lemon grass to spirit the wine away from the box.
Dominio do Bibei, Ribeira Sacra, Lacima, 2011
Until Eldad Levy started importing Guimaro, I'd never heard of Ribeira Sacra. Frankly, I'd hardly even read up on the greater appellation, Galicia (and doubt I'd ever knowingly drunk any wine from Galicia, until Guimaro entered orbit). If you want to take obscurity up a notch, this comes from the even lesser-known Quiroga-Bibei subzone, where the owner of Dominio do Bibei, Javier Domínguez, and his team tend wines back-breaking terraced vineyards at up to 500-600 meters above sea level. This is the flagship red, I think. it comes from the highest vineyards of the domain and is made of 75% Mencía, 20% Brancellao, 3% Mouratón and 2% Sousón from older vines (60 to 110 years). The nose is decently complex, with red fruit, black pepper and dill. The texture is silky and the palate is packed with flavors. I have to say that, although I really enjoy Mencia, I rarely feel I am in presence of real greatness (the two previous wines at least scratch the surface of royalty). This is one of the best, though. Think of the winsome ways of Beaujolais Crus, and add a touch of chilli.
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