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| Boys playing with some new toys! |
Gunther Steinmetz, Mosel, 40XL, 2016
Somehow, Stefan Steinmetz has time and energy to produce classic Rieslings of every predikat, and from multiple vineyards, some Pinot Noir and even... Dornfelder, a rare German Grape (which is also grown in Austria and the US, according to Johnson's Wine Pocket Book, in case you're in need of useless trivia). Stefan ages it for 40 months. The label says XL, the Steinmetz site says small barrels. Either way, the oak isn't intrusive. I can't quite place it in context. I get scented herbs, light tannins, spices, a weird mix of Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc in character. I took home the leftovers and there was some development the next day and it was still fresh and fruity. I'm not quite ready to call it unique, but definitely uncommon.
On to three new Piedmont producers, care of Dani Galil.
Scarpa, Verduno Pelaverga, 2021
I don't know a lot about Pelaverga, but I know more about this grape than about Scarpa. Pelaverga was a grape that Burlotto saved from extinction and is slowly becoming trendy. Scarpa's vines are thirty years old but Scarpa only started vinifying the grapes in 2020. What thrills me about the ‘lesser’ grapes of the Langhe is how they reflect the Piedmont thumbprint: a certain mix of savory herbs, dry earth and, if we’re lucky, a touch of truffles. This gets there, after throwing off an initial blast of caramel.
Sorelle Olivero, Barolo Serralunga, 2017
This is a small, family winery that no one seems to write about. Their website looks like a GeoCities homepage from the 90's. Drinking young Nebbiolos can be a challenge, but 2017 being a relatively forward vintage, and given a few hours of air, we expected to enjoy this wine more. We struggled. It started off with a band aid funk and dusty wool on the nose and a ripe palate. The next day was better - the nose started showing spices and the acidity was better - but it only managed to edge its way to being somewhat enjoyable, yet not quite captivating, especially given its bitter finish. I really can't tell whether it's just a minor Barolo without enough pizazz to offset its grungy youth, or a winery that didn't time the harvest right in 2017.
Giovanni Rosso, Barolo, 2017
Another producer no one knows about, excerpt a couple of my friends, it seems. I remember reading the name, somewhere, but now I can't recall where. It's the better of the two newcomers, but presents its own set of challenges. It opens, closes, opens again showing sweetness of fruit and lovely iron scented aromatics. Then it finally awakens! The aromatics prove their complexity, displaying appealing spices, more iron, the unique stamp of Langhe earth. A very good buy.
And back to Steinmetz to wrap up the evening, with not one, but two Eisweins. The first was picked in December or whatever passes for normal where Eisweins are concerned, the Limited Edition in February!
Gunther Steinmetz, Mosel, Brauneberger Mandelgraben, Eiswein, 2020
Gunther Steinmetz, Mosel, Brauneberger Mandelgraben, Eiswein, Limited Edition, 2020
The contrast between the structure and texture of the two is what's interesting here, less so specific descriptors. As you might well expect, the Limited Edition is less ready and more concentrated. Its nose is mute, with some meaty notes, later showing a touch of minerals. It improves some, but the palate is at least a decade away from its peak. It's a huge blast of hedonism, as is the 'regular', though there the hedonism even now is tempered by inherent elegance. Because the regular version is not as outrageously hedonistic, I get a sense of spices and, especially, guayavas.
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