Produttori dei Barbaresco, Barbaresco, 2017
The hot vintage where the vines went to shock then matured quickly when the weather cooled down fast, if I have interpreted correctly what I’ve heard and read. Whatever took place, the results can be fresher than expected, all the while, producers, writers and fans are dubious about longevity. Guess we can look forward to early drinking pleasure sans guilt.
A touch medicinal upon opening, the cherries and Langhe earthiness are obvious, the tannins coat the taste buds with a raspy touch and black tea bitterness. The core fruit is sour-sweet, but balanced by tannins and acidity, which give it a saline finish. A good Nebbiolo has a lot of everything, tannins, acidity and fruit, the secret is how well they’re balanced - the acidity here is remarkably fresh, proving how well the good producers managed the vintage. There was no loss of freshness and the length is quite decent. It’s very elegant. I might not have done well with it in a blind tasting: the lithe elegance is Barbaresco, but something about the astringency (the black tea I mentioned) takes me to Barolo.
Sphera, White Signature, 2020
I was looking forward to tasting this, the first pure Semillon in the flagship series. For various reasons, it took a while. It's in a fleshy, exotic phase, which I hope it will shed. Actually, the exoticism is fine, it's the baby fat that I'd like it to get rid of. Despite these misgivings, it's living up to the hype, the nose complex, the finish long and persistent. The character is in the common ground where Semillon and Chenin Blanc often meet - spicy melons and a touch of ash. After a while, the fruit recedes and the acidity becomes very dominant, another sign of a young wine still coming to terms with itself, you might say.
Vincent Paris, Saint-Joseph, Les Cotes, 2019
A juicy, succulent wine, displaying meat fat and black pepper on the nose, olives, berries, cold meats and palate. On a purely vinous scale it's not as deep as a top North Rhône, but the joy it provides is deep - and infectious.
Kumeu River, Chardonnay Estate, 2020
Proves that if the Old World / New World schism still has any meaning, it’s not a geographical one. Crisp and clear, with green apples and flint.
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