Wild Night (Pereh, March 24, 2022)

Hermann Ludes, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Thornicker Ritsch, Riesling Auslese, 1995

A classic Mosel in an apex of graceful maturity. It's nuanced and delicate, the initial flush of green apples of a young Mosel enriched by peaches and a lacy veil of minerals.

Jean-Claude Bachelet, Chassagne Premier Cru, Les Macherelles, 2014

This is a quintessential Chassagne. I always find a charming rusticity that is distinct from, say, Saint-Aubin, and a broader body than a Beaune (Puligny and Meursault shouldn't be rustic, in my opinion). Anyway, give it a few minutes in glass to let the oak blow off and enjoy the minerals and dry grass for a lovely example of Burgundy magic.

Louis Jadot, Denis St. Clos Grand Cru, 1995

Did I just say "Burgundy magic"? How then to describe a mature, robust Grand Cru? The nose is complex - red fruit, mineral, forest floor, iron - the plate is superbly balanced and full of character. Damn the economics that took Grand Crus away from us!

Terre Nere, Etna, San Lorenzo, 2016

I love Terre Nere, but I still don't have enough experience to gauge how long to age them or open them before drinking. This is the first time I've drunk the San Lorenzo outside of tastings just post-arrival. In retrospect, this could have used 3-4 more years, a decanter or slow-ox for over six hours, as it only began to express itself after three hours. Initially, it was very fruit forward and ripe - not over the top, just enough to drown out the tannins. The acidity is very good and present and obvious from the start, but the wine was hard to enjoy until the tannins asserted themselves and provided a counter-balance. The overall picture once things settle down: good acidity, dark red fruit, minerals, a touch of coffee grains, rusty tannins.