R. López de Heredia, Rioja, Reserva, Viña Bosconia, 2009
The first pour is surprisingly ready, given that I like my Gran Reservas 20-30 years old - the Bosconia would meet any aspect of the Gran Reserva appellation, had Heredia chosen to label it such (in fact, all Heredia wines could legally be labelled and sold as Gran Reservas). The rust and dust on the nose hint at a savoriness that the palate delivers. The acidity is terrific, bringing out a backbone of sour, red cherries.
But, if you’ve ever drunk a mature Rioja, you know that a youthful showing like this only the barest start of a great adventure. The years in barrels don’t show as oaky flavors but rather a grainy texture that I’m sure will resolve into iron-driven savory backbone.
Markus Molitor, Mosel, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling Spätlese, 2015
Young apricots meet glacial slate. Good balance between a luscious, hedonistic ripeness and racy, green apple acidity that leaves a touch of salt on the finish. The nose develops complex nuances and layers of rocks and herbs. As does the finish, which is beguiling: sometimes it’s lean and salty and sometimes it’s as hedonistic, yet taut, as a lime pie.
Zarate, Rías Baixas, Albariño, El Palomar, 2018
Albariño, darling of the hipster sommeliers for the last five years or so. It probably doesn't get much better than this, as close to an Grand Cru as we are likely to get. It's sourced from 150+ year old vines, which works out to one shekel a year, since it's priced at 150+ shekels. Albariño, like Chardonnay, is a neutral sort of grape, all the better to reflect terroir. The El Palomar sings of rocks and chalk, with lime fruit that makes it perfect for all the courses of a meal until meat and/or spicy sauces are introduced. The nose is complex, the palate textured, gripping and long.
Philippe Alliet, Chinon, Vieilles Vignes, 2017
Some wines are not overly deep, complex or long - what they are is simply gorgeous. This is a brilliant example. And an eye opener. The fruit is firm yet plush, with a lightly grainy, rustic texture. The nose shows deep red fruit, smoky earth, violets and lead pencil, as well as a herbal spiciness that comes directly from the fruit. It's young and enjoyable but it's not a quaffer in any way. The age of the vines (70-80 years) plus aging in cement tanks result in a wine of no little depth, yet one that doesn't need years to open up.
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