Niepoort, Bairrada, Vinhas Velhas, Bical Maria Gomez, 2017
I drank a bottle at Tchernichovsky. It was racy and exotic, with minerality that suggests the sweetness of talc. But I thought it lacked punch and body. Because of Niepoort’s reputation, and frankly, my love for their wines, and the age of the vines involved, I thought it deserved another shot at home, allowing the wine more time to open up. I think there is a certain delicacy to it that maybe doesn’t work that well in a restaurant setting. It was easier to enjoy its nuances at home. And it helped that it got more air at home, which brought the exotic, green melon expressiveness of Bairrada whites to the fore. I think it’s lovely, with salivating acidity on the finish.
Niepoort, Dao, Conciso Branco, 2018
This is a blend of Bical, Encruzado and Malvasia. A glass at Tchernichovsky was mute, but a bottle at home affirmed everything I love about Portuguese whites. A precise mix of melons and salt, terrific acidity, persistent length.
Niepoort, Late Bottled Vintage, 2017
I’m not a big Port drinker, but I do love the balance and freshness here. LBV’s are sort of a ‘second wine’ (you could make a case that anything besides a Vintage Port is a lodge’s second wine). The lesser barrels from the vintage are aged in barrel for 4-6 years and the bottled, which is just enough to soften the wine without the kiss of light oxidation, which is what happens with a Tawny. This is mildly sweet without being cloying, the sour berries tempered by the tannins and dark chocolate/smoky/spicy aromas and flavors. Lovely.
Emilio Lustau, Oloroso, Don Nuno
I am not a big Sherry drinker, either, but only due to circumstances. I wish more was imported. I will, for instance, buy any Lustau the importer cares to bring to Israel. Oloroso should be the easiest style for newcomers to handle, as it’s made from barrels where Flor died rather early or never really caught. It’s the closest Sherry gets to a Tawny Port, with roasted walnuts and spices rather than iodine. Except that a dry style such as this is every bit as challenging as an Amontillado or a Palo Cortado, angular and edgy.
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