Feldstein, Grenache, 2016
Choosing the best wine Avi Feldstein makes would be an interesting debate, probably a lengthy one, at that. Even choosing a favorite would rack my brains. But usually, the wine that intrigues me the most, the one I go back to the most, is his Grenache. Grenache was out of favor with the cognoscenti for a while, because of so many overwrought and over-extracted Chateauneufs. Even when handled right, there's something a little distant about Grenache. The surface is a little facile and artificial. I think that's part of its charm. If a good Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo is a fine Method actor, Grenache at its best is a suave Clark Gable: the fruit is supple but you accept that its depth is more limited.
The Feldstein Grenache plays its part with a fine sleigh of hand, wrapping the fruit with aromas of white pepper and a herbal earthiness that takes me to Piedmont, of all places. Just an associative thing, really. The fine tannins are world-class, spearing the lightly sweetish fruit.
Comando G, Vino de Paraje, Premier Rozas, 2018
Comando G Viticultores was founded by Daniel Gómez Landi and Fernando Garcia. The duo has two role models: the Burgundian vineyard classification system and Chateau Rayas’ dedication to Grenache. Their home territory consists of extremely old Garnacha (Granache) vineyards in the Madrid appellation. This is their ‘premier cru’ wine from vineyards around Rozas de Puerto Real. Like La Bruno de Rozas, the 'vilage' wine, this needs several hours to start singing. Actually, it spent that time in a decanter and the aromatics and structure, while harmonious and beautiful, still felt restrained. I got bright red fruit, clay, dust, saddle leather. It deserves all hype: Burgundy portrayed by Grenache, at Premier Cru level.
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