Sam Harrop, Weiheke Island, Syrah, Cedalion Church Bay, 2015
The remaining half of a bottle opened two days before. Sam Harrop is the hot new name on the import scene. Justifiably so, based on this bottle, his flagship Syrah, I believe. My first impression was Thierry Allemand, with that Cornas master's typical rust and nails sweetened by sour-sweet red and blue fruit. The gorgeous black pepper and rust on the nose will make the romantic smile, the excellent acidity will ring a gourmand's heart.
Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine, Beaune Premier Cru, Montrevenots, 2016This was my favorite of the mid-priced wines when Wine Route started importing the domaine two years ago. It’s sanely affordable while providing plenty of interest, a combination that’s growing ever harder to find in Burgundy. It’s all about strawberries and forest floor on the nose, but the acidity is dormant at first so the tannins and fruit come off as astringent. You need to wait a couple of hours or decant to allow the fruit and spices to open and fan out.
Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2018
I think Vitkin has started to release the Petite Sirah earlier than in the last vintages I had bought, and I’m really not used to drinking it this young. The quality of the fruit is obvious but it dominates the show so much that even with air, the wine only barely hints at graphite, black pepper and leather, violets. Air tames the fruit nicely to allow more nuances to show, while juggling the excellent acidity typical of this wine with muscular balance and virgin opulence. A true Israeli classic.
Faustino, Rioja Gran Reserva, Edicion Especial, 2010
I try to focus on good wines, or the good things about mediocre wines, but sometimes a wine just brings out the teacher in me: “nice effort, but easy on the barrels next time.” Not that it's oaky in a very nasty way, but there's just so much more Rioja has to offer besides oak.
Feldstein, Semillon-Sauvignon, 2018
I want to get another bottle to age for a year or so, because I want to see where it develops once the Sauvignon asserts itself more and adds, say, a little greenness and maybe a touch of minerals. Right now, the Semillon dominates, providing the sweet spiciness of a ripe peach. What's really dormant is the expressiveness this wine can show when it really unfolds.
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