Sauvignon Blanc, Barolo, Mosel

Sphera, Sauvignon Blanc, 2020

Think of a guayana fruit slowly oozing salt water. It’s a bit of an extrovert, as many Sauvignon Blancs are, especially compared to…

Feldstein, Sauvignon Blanc, 2019

Graceful, balanced, expressing minerals much more than it does fruit, but anyway expressing both with great restraint. You won’t find the fiery minerals of the best of the Loire, rather something that recalls rolling hilltops. (Nov. 19, 2021)

Feldstein, Sauvignon Blanc, 2018

This is more of a firecracker, with a delectable, salty finish. The minerals are more expressive, for one, and the fruit is more intense, guayava and gooseberry. Later, some citrus flowers and a touch of mint enter the fray. This is mid-point between the Sphera 2020 and the Feldstein 2019, but all three are good examples of how expressive Sauvignon Blanc can be, even when it wanders away from homeland Loire. (Nov. 22, 2021)

Cantine Povero, Barolo, Priore, 2016

An unknown name to me (and I suspect to any but the most ardent lovers of Piedmont) combined with elevage in barriques equals no big expectations on my part. However, be it the greatness of the vintage or intrinsic winemaking skills, this is quite enjoyable and not very expensive, even before the large Bachelors Day discount I got for my purchase. The winery doesn’t mention the source of the grapes in the data sheet so I guess they’re bought grapes from all over the DOCG. The nose is deep and dark and more charming than I’d thought it would be: spices, tar, iron. Drying tannins contribute to the rusty, muscular/masculine texture. It's really not weighty enough for the long term, so just enjoy it until it turns ten or so. (Nov. 14, 2021)

Cordero di Montezemolo, Barolo, Monfalletto, 2016

Montezemolo, on the other hand, is a better known name, even if it's not a top-rung name. This is the basic Barolo, sourced from La Mora crus (basically, everything that doesn't go into the Riservas). 2016 is expressed here as a caressingly perfumed nose and restrained, elegant power. The initial impressions is red fruit and herbs verging on garrigue. The palate offers a silky texture and mineral-tinged flavors. Air brings out darker tints and brawnier muscles, but the initial elegance remains. It's a great value, as most locals should be able to buy it for less than 200 NIS. (Nov. 17, 2021)

Gunther Steinmetz, Mosel, Mulheimer Sonnenlay, Riesling Kabinett, 2019

An unrepentant Kabinett, lithe and light, with abundant mineral-infused, coiled energy, racy acidity and juicy sweetness that explode in tandem on the finish. It’s not very complex but it’s quite typical and as uplifting as an energy drink. (Nov. 15, 2021)