Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault Premier Cru, Charmes, 2017
Almost counter-intuitively, this is ready to rock. Racy and elegant, with a mineral sheen on top of green apples. I get the finesse of a Premier Cru, but initially not so much the depth or undeniable complexity of one. That comes, though, with an hour or so of air. Such a feelgood wine, Burgundy style. (Oct. 29, 2021)
Hermann Loudes, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Klusserather Bruderschaft, Riesling Auslese, 1994
All the classic elements of the Mosel are on display: baked apples, fresh apples, peaches, fresh dill, the smell of icy winter air and rocks warming in the noon sun. The thing is, after all those years in bottle, the moving parts are so in synch it seems they dance freely around each other without breaking form. That’s the beauty of a mature Riesling. That, and the way the fruit and sugar are ever so slowly drifting into an afterlife: they’re still vivid, yet I feel a part of their presence as a beautiful, ethereal memory of their youth. (Oct. 31, 2021)
Larmandier-Bernier, Vieille Vigne du Levant, Grand Cru, 2009
A twelve year old Champagne that needs time to open! The nose is quintessentially mature, with mushrooms, nuts and lightly oxidative notes complemented by chalk. The palate has good weight, full of flavorsome mushroom flavors. It feels tired at first, then, after an hour, it's enlivened and enriched by steak of chalk. A vibrant Corton-Charlemagne with bubbles. (Nov. 9, 2021)
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