A venerable producer, whose pride is in their Martinenga monopole. Production is rather large and leans towards modern methods, which in Piedmontese jargon means French barriques. Where the barriques are kept in check, the Martinenga character shines through and captivates. Elsewhere, I have my doubts. More on that below.
Langhe,
Sauvignon, 2019
Tropical
and mineral at the same time. I get Guayava, salt. A good wine, but nothing that says "Piedmont" to me.
Langhe, Chardonnay, 2018
Sees
some new barrels, mostly old, the oak is obvious, mostly on the palate. Flint
on the nose. Really international.
Dolcetto, Monte Aribaldo, 2019
Cherry,
spicy. Not a lot of nuances, but there’s really no need for them anyway.
Nebbiolo, 2020
Made from younger vines on the lower slopes. A fresh, lovely, fruity wine that takes time to sneak up on you and show fresh red cherries and flowers.
Barbaresco, Martinenga, 2018
All
the Barbarescos are basically single Cru Martinenga, which is a large monopole
(the Gaiun and Camp Gros are vineyards within the cru). All see at least a year
of barriques before being moved to foudres. It’s frustrating because at times the oak gives the Nebbiolo character a fight. And who needs a fight?
Especially after tasting Burlotto and Brezza, where the oak is simply AWOL.
With this wine, it’s not noticeable and I'm blasted by that intense, intoxicating
Nebbiolo nose, head on: cherries, dry rose petals, spices. Still tannic, but the tannins are
very fine. For me, the clear winner and the wine to take home.
Gaiun, Martinenga, 2017
A surprising wine, given the year and the fact that it is aged for two years in barriques. It's more floral, at the same time more subtle and subdued, than the previous wine: the 2018 Martinenga is so forward it gives great
pleasure now, but the Gaiun really needs time.
Camp Gros, Riserva, 2016
This is a wine that really suffers from the oak (which is strange, because it is matured the same as the Martinenga, i.e. only one year in barriques and another in foudres). Initially, it's a quiet and subtle wine that doesn’t put out easily. Then, even as the nose opens up to become intoxicating, the oak comes up to shut down the palate.
Gaiun, Martinenga, 2012
The nose has evolved to show a concentration of mushrooms and dry earth. The tannins are not so fine, they are dry and a tad
bitter, and the oak is still obvious, with the fruit not up to the task of overcoming either of them.
Virtus, 2009
Martinenga is such a huge monopole that there is room for everything to grow there. Thus, this Cabernet Sauvignon/Barbera blend, sourced from one of the vineyards in the cru. It obviously has no right to feel like a Barbaresco and it doesn’t. It feels like a very good, even excellent, Super-Tuscan/Super-Anything Cabernet. I’m actually harsh on it. I like to give wines some time before passing judgement, but sometimes my wit is quicker than my heart. Air brings out green herbs, even earth and mushrooms, that offer a sort of sideways glance at Piedmont. I would have preferred to drink it three-four years ago. The tannins overwhelm the fruit on the finish and the acidity is fine until it starts to fade on the finish. Still, enough personality here for enjoyment and education.
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