Somebody's Got To Bring Home The Bacon


Domaine Vincent Paris, Cornas, La Geynale, 2009

Chateau du Hureau, Willi Schaefer, Selbach-Oster and Vincent Paris: all producers I bought abroad before Eldad Levy started importing them. I wish I could turn that kind of foresight into solid cash. This is a wine I bought in London 7 years ago.

Wine writers and lovers of the North Rhone used to fear the Cornas tannins of old. In hindsight, most writers today chalk them up to the strained logistics of harvest and winemaking by growers who were farmers rather than vignerons. The tannins are not rough or puckering here, but they are massive, but then so is the fruit. The tannins and fruit match up well and the end result is a big wine, but not an inelegant brute. In fact, it has loads of charm and is a textbook Cornas, with dark forest fruit, black pepper, minerals, iron and bacon fat. (Apr. 30, 2021)


 

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