Ribeira Sacra is one of the up-and-coming Spanish regions and Mencia is one of the up-and-coming red grapes. Trends and winemakers often intersect, so it's not surprising to find that Raul Perez, the star winemaker of Bierzo, the very fashionable Mencia goldfield, consults here. The Finca Capeliños is one of the three red single vineyard wines, in this case a cru located on a steep slope with great southwestern exposure where the vines are an astounding 70+ years old. 50% of the grapes are whole-cluster and all undergo a long maceration. All of the above brings out a level of quality and character I have not yet experienced with Mencia. The palate has the breadth and depth of a second or third tier Bordeaux - and if you know who the top cats are, you know even third tier is high praise indeed. The fruit is red in tone, the complex nose flecked with iron, baked earth and stone; the rich palate tempered by focused, savory tannins. I'm still reaching for descriptors because the grape is new to me, but with a wine like this one, I start to understand it really is unique. (Mar. 26, 2021)
Guimaro, Ribeira Sacra, Finca Pombeiras, 2015
This is an even rarer wine, and 100% whole cluster. It's a more floral wine than the Finca Capeliños, but to get its full impact requires time and air. Here, the nose shows black fruit, as well as red, the darker tone coming from a herbal earthiness that gains complexity and definition with air. The palate is silky like a fine Pinot, but spicier and packed with flavors, without causing any palate fatigue. Finally, the finish is both tangy and pungent, almost like cheese rind. (Mar. 30, 2021)
Comments