2006 is the vintage nobody likes, the runt of the litter that never gets adopted. OK, 2003 was hot and rotten to begin with, and we never expected much out of it, and 2004 and 2007 were marked for early consumption, but no one seems to have ever come to terms with 2006, an austere vintage lauded as 'classical' but which remained for years sour-faced and sulky. Maybe that's what classical meant in the 20th century. But 2006 was rarely sexy, a lost cause in Burgundian terms.
Having said that, the Rugiens, 2006 is not bad at all, despite the vintage. Actually, it's a lovely effort, fairly complex, with a very typical Pommard nose, iron and earth ingrained into the nuanced, red fruit typical of Etienne de Montille's body of work. The palate is a step back, bitter-sour fruit, where the fruit, tannins and acidity work in tandem but never really fan out and culminate in a drying finish. Overall and despite the misgivings, worth the wait and money, methinks. (Jan. 16, 2021)
Domaine Olivier Guyot, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Champeaux, 2010
I love Guyot. Whatever your definition of greatness is, I hope it includes families who make delicious, honest, expressive wines. This is outright sex in a bottle, smelling like strawberries bushes in a thunderstorm, the palate juicy, fresh and deep. As it opens, it shows more somber tones and releases the weight and presence of a Premier Cru. Simply intoxicating. (Jan. 17, 2021)
Domaine Henri Gouges, Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru, Clos des Porrets St. Georges, 2005
Like the two above, I think the wine easily the village away. Gouges is the most tannic of Bourgognes and can be tough as nails, but fifteen years post a hot vintage, this is still tough at first, but charming in its Old World way, the kind of wine I love to share, but have no problems finishing off myself. Expanding, drawing back, fanning out, always changing, never taking a step back. The nose is complex and morphs through hedonistic and herbal phases, always adorned by red fruit, minerals and iron. The palate shows excellent balance and acidity, then a dusty, tannic finish. I'm surprised how sexy this turned out to be. (Jan. 19, 2021)
And here's what happens when things go wrong (there's not enough acidity in these wines for them to go sour).
Domaine Ponsot, Morey St. Denis Premier Cru, Cuvée des Alouettes, 2009
Domaine Ponsot, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Charmes, 2009
The Alouettes is terrible. Both nose and palate are one dimensional and the palate is especially meh, with flat fruit and low acidity. The Chambolle is better, but hardly Charmes, nor indeed very charming. It's decently complex on the nose, but with none of the Chambolle flowers, rather a balsamic vinegar and vegetable stew character - like a mature Rioja - as well as touches of iron. The palate lacks freshness, vitality or interesting texture. Maybe Ponsot is just a crappy winemaker. Granted, 2009 was a warm vintage, but even people who don't like it never call it a bad vintage, like 2003. It takes real talent to take grapes from Morey and Chambolle Premier Crus in a decent vintage and make a wine that would make an average generic Bourgogne look down its nose at.
No wonder Rudy Kurniawan chose to fake Ponsot. If they're all this bad, who'd be able to tell the difference?
Comments
A real honest comment...
'Rudy Kurniawan chose to fake Ponsot. If they're all this bad, who'd be able to tell the difference?'
I often wondered how he did fool so many...a bit of the above...and maybe too many label drinkers
Regards
Barry