Rizzi, Barbaresco, Pajoré, 2013
Rizzi is one of the stars of Treiso, the 'other' Barbaresco town, which is said to make some of the most elegant wines in the Barbaresco. The Nervo 2013, was drinking so great that I couldn't give my hands off the Pajoré. The nose is super expressive already and integrates earth and truffles, where the Nervo was laden with anise and menthol. The fruit, deep and beautifully delineated and coalesced, coats the palate with savory flavors, the tannins accenting the flavors rather than blocking them. Still has loads of years to travel, but drinking it now is not a mercy date. (Dec. 28, 2020)
Archil Guniava Wine Cellar, Imereti Tsitska Kvaliti, 2019
The nose is interesting enough, if you like dirty roads. I like dirty roads and wild orchards, dirt without flora and fruit, that I like less. The palate is rather flat. I was sure natural wines were supposed to be livelier than 'industrialized wines'. Thus dies Walden. (Dec. 30, 2020)
Quinta de Saes (Alvaro Castro), Dão, Branco Reserva, Encruzado , 2018
At this price point, Portuguese whites provide charm without great depth, but still, it's the kind of charm you want in your world, believe me. The palate offers pears whose bitter-sweetness is tempered by salt, while the nose allures you with the same kind of charm Bourgogne lovers are weaned on, but in a slightly sweeter, more exotic vein: think of sea weed and herbs roasted in Atlantic salt and a touch of jamon fat. More focus and tension, and depth as I said earlier, would make it a great wine, but a killer deal for its cost.(Jan. 3, 2021)
Luis Pato, Beiras, Vinhas Velhas, 2016
Even this relatively low bottling is made of century old vines. The nose is mellow black and blue fruit on a background of dust and iron, echoed on the palate, with some pretty good acidity. A lot of wine, and quality, for its niche, something like a Beaujolais with an Iberian accent. (Jan. 5, 2021)
Domaine Jean Chauvenet, Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru, Les Vaucrains, 2010
If this wasn't a 2010, I'd be pleased. It just feels like a fifteen year old Premier Cru from a good vintage as opposed to a ten year old from a great one. The nose is typical NSG, a handsome dose of minerals atop black cherries, with a herbaceous streak. Pretty good, in all. The palate exposes the faults of Pinot aged beyond the point where the acidity and tannins still support the fruit: the acidity has faded and the tannins feel dry. (Jan. 8, 2021)
Comments