Savagnin is the grape famous for its role in the unique, yellow vin jaune of the Jura. I only ever had just one 'conventional' Savagnin before - if such a term can indeed be used to describe it - so I have little basis for comparison... but this one is quite the experience. It smells like the savory aspects of sherry or a white Rioja: cured meats and vegetable stew, but without any oxidized notes. In short, the essence of an aged wine sans fruit. Except, this isn't an aged wine, so eventually the palate hits with vibrant fruit and acidity and later time and air bring out aromas of orange and clementine juice. A joyous wine, highly recommended to wine lovers of all age and shape. (Dec. 21, 2020)
Yannick Amirault, Bourgueil, Le Grand Clos, 2010
I've been aging my Amirault 2010's for seven years now and they're just starting to emerge. This is just sneaking out of its shell, still monolithic but finally hinting at something beyond primary fruit. It smells like a warm vintage Bordeaux blend, but the acidity is excellent, giving the fruit a good snap. The nose, as you'd expect, has well proportioned doses of earth and lead pencil. I don't know when I'll finally enjoy my last two bottles of the flagship Petite Cave, 2010. Every time I open an Amirault 2010, it looks like it will need 3-4 more years, but those years just keep adding up. (Dec. 20, 2020)
I love this, especially since it seems to be peaking already, thus no guilt or regrets for opening an eight year old Riserva. It's the year, not the bottle. The nose is very turffle-y, with wet earth, then some asphalt. It's elegant and very tasty, with an excellent tannic texture. Not very profound, but a heartwarming treat. (Dec. 22, 2020)
Bruno Giacosa, Dolcetto d'Alba, 2017
Another treat, a wine that actually needs as much time as the Monvigliero to show its special magic. It starts out with copious amounts of black cherries in the front and slowly unfolds its own brand of earth and truffles. (Dec. 22, 2020)
Comando G, Vinos de Madrid, La Bruja de Rozas, 2017
A Grenache from Madrid, that has the silky texture of Pinot and a meaty essence that is almost Beaujolais-like. Not the Grenache you think you knew. Great fun for a couple of glasses, but it's too dirty for me in the long run. (Dec. 24, 2020)
Jean-Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand'Cour), Fleurie, Clos de la Grand'Cour, 2018
2018 was a warm, 'big' vintage, which shows as a touch of heat on the nose (and also on the label), but is less obvious (if at all) on the silk-textured, juicy palate. The nose is red cherries, earth and spices. While I prefer a lighter, more nuanced style of Beaujolais, I admire how the size of the wine was whittled down to a more palatable scale.(Dec. 26, 2020)
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