From Cana'an to Chile

Feldstein, Ishtar, 2016

Where Feldstein's Grenache and Anu Carignan dance and stumble into a feral wildness, here the fruit plays against a calmer backdrop, so at first the oak sticks out in the more sedate surroundings. But that's only until air lets the oak bleed into the fruit and then the Ishtar shows well formed red fruit with dusty/tarry aromas, and a light green character that is more pine needles than the pencil shavings of the Cabernet Franc Loire appellations. Fine and in need of 2-3 years, at least. (Nov. 29, 2020)

Undurraga, San Antonio, T.H., Riesling, 2012

This was a whim purchase in an unknown (to me) wine store up in the north. Undurraga is a large Chilean winery imported by Adom Kehe, the import arm of Tulip Winery. T.H is Undurraga's Terroir Hunter series of wines from select vineyards around the country, which Johnson's Wine Pocket Book calls "superb". The Riesling is sourced from a western facing slope in the San Antonio Valley, just 4 kilometers from the Pacific Ocean. The back label calls it off dry, but it's just barely so, for my tastes. It has plenty of vigorous, mineral character and steely, nervy, fruit that seemed to have edged its way slowly to near ripeness. Green peaches and apples, sea sand, a hint of petrol, a long, salty finish. A wise import choice from an artistic point of view and I hope it's been selling well. If not, then here I am to tell you what a great weekday bottle this is, for about 70 NIS. (Nov. 30, 2020)

Domaine Patrice Rion, Nuits St. Georges, Vieilles Vignes, 2017

I think Wine Route have been carrying this for a few months. The original price seemed high, so I waited for the right discount to come along, It finally arrived on the Black Friday weekend.  It's a very nice village wine, with a compact frame. It's not flashy, yet not foursquare either, simply well-made , red cherries with earthy nuances, with a slightly astringent yet very savory and flavorsome finish. It's a very good village wine, typical NSG, the old vines lending it better than average complexity and depth. (Dec. 6, 2020)

Niepoort, Duoro, Tiara, 2018

I've had the 2017 and 2018 on several occasions but never got around to writing up a note for the 2018. If you've been keeping up with me, you know how much I love the white wines of Portugal, so my love for the Tiara should come as no surprise. But this is beyond love. This is about economics. There some Macons and Chablis available in Israel at a similar price point and they would have a similar mineral cut and the sea side aromas would be a a close kin, but there's an underlying exoticism and magic that is all Duoro and that few wines can evoke. (Dec. 7, 2020)

Vincent Pinard, Pinot Noir, Sancerre Rouge, 2018

Few wines can match a Bourgogne red for that certain character and style that is a combination of earth, flowers, forest floor and exotic spices. But my tastes are Catholic enough to follow my love of Pinot across the world and I've learned it's quite versatile for such a finicky grape. In France, Pinot Noir is especially comfortable in three regions: Burgundy, of course, Champagne and Sancerre. The only Pinot producer from Sancerre I've tried before is Vacheron. If I compare the two houses - for context's sake if nothing else - then its peer is Vacheron's 'basic' red and they're quite a study in contrast. The Vacheron is more delicate and lighter, while this is hearty and robust, a warm vintage Pinot, although not an overripe one. The fruit is solidly red, not especially subtle, with earth and mushrooms deeply embedded. I really like it, it's quite a pleasure now, but I'll probably hold off on the high end Charlouise for a couple of years. (Dec. 8, 2020)

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