Domaine Duroche has been a constant presence - in the market, in my fridge and in my wine glasses - since Eldad Levy and Daniel Lifshitz started importing the domaine five year ago. A decade after Pierre Duroche took over the domaine from père Gilles, it's time to stop calling him a rising star. He's proven his mettle with with wines of elegance and depth, beauty and elusive Bourgogne magic.
Gevrey-Chambertin, 2018
Duroche bottles four village dieux-lits, as well as this blend of eight dits, of which only Aux Etelois gets bottled separately. Hugh Johnson's Wine Pocket Book says 2018 is set out to be a legendary vintage for Red Burgundy and this certainly shows the balance and finesse of one, even at this relatively low rank. It's superbly tasty for a village wine - the winemaker's touch must be praised as well as the vintage. The fruit is still primary, at the darker side of the Pinot spectrum (black raspberries), with floral accents. It's so precocious and succulent in its youth, it makes you want to hug it and hope it never grows up. (Nov. 22, 2020)
Gevrey-Chambertin, Champ, 2018
The big riddle with the Duroche village crus: is the difference between them a matter of quality or style? A little of both, in this case. This is deeper than the plain Gevrey, with a touch more minerals. It conveys the same top-notch balance and elegance, and feels more complete and vital. A beautiful wine. 2018 might indeed turn out legendary chez Duroche! (Nov. 24 2020)
Gevrey-Chambertin, Le Clos, 2018
Matches the depth of the Champ, if not quite the elegance, but with more of the hearty, sauvage character most people associate with the village - especially the hint of leather on the finish. Like the other two 2018's, and keeping with the house style, there are floral notes in the background. The main difference is that the sauvage character is so upfront that the Clos is more immediate and, at the same time, arguably too obvious. (Nov. 26, 2020)
Gevrey-Chambertin, Champ, 2015
The initial impression was the same "in your face" sauvage character, but other, more complex facets soon emerge: a mineral and earth laden centerstage, recalling freshly turned damp earth; suave, dark fruit that combines depth and lightness on a complex finish molded by age. Like the other Duroche village wines, the Champ 2015 shows great craftmanship, a sharp punch and the depth, elegance and flowing form of Premier Cru. These villages may not be utmost, immortal classics, but they sure show none of the weakness and cracks of a lesser appellation. (Dec. 3, 2020)
Lavaut (usually spelled Lavaux) St. Jacques is a vineyard neighboring the more famous and better regarded Clos St. Jacques. It's located at the entrance of the Combe de Lavaux, which is a small valley, and the vines are planted on slopes with a good, southern exposure. The Combe channels colder winds from the west, so that the vines mature slowly. Whether this is a good or a bad things depends on what the vigneron and consumer look for in a wine, but the Lavaux has always been considered a leaner-styled wine than the Clos. Personally, if not carried to extremes, I prefer a lean, lithe Bourgogne to a ripe one, but 2014 was a cool year to begin with, and this is more austere and less fleshed out than the village wines above. The nose shows more nuances and greater subtlety than the village crus, but is very subdued overall, as is the palate. Both lack punch right now and will need another 3-5 years to show their potential. The 2013, by the way, was already singing gracefully last year, probably due to vintage differences I can't grasp. (Dec. 5, 2020)
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