A Cold, Wet Hanuka in Tel Aviv

La Maison Romane Corton-Perrières, 2008 

Since the last bottle of La Maison Romane that I'd opened, the Pommard Premier Cru, Largilliere, 2010, turned out to be an over-the-hill disaster, I decided I'd subject only myself to my last sole remaining bottle from this producer. This Corton was a favorite among my friends when Bourgogne Crown first brought it to Israel, an elegant Grand Cru quite unlike the usual Corton powerhouses. It was loaded with fresh strawberries seven and eight years ago and time seems to have passed it and it's still loaded with fresh strawberries. There's a hint of rusty tannins in the background, reminding me why Oronce Beller's wines reminded me to Rene Engel from the very first taste.

The nose is as complex and magical as I'd expect from a Grand Cru and grows in intensity throughout. Definitely Grand Cru caliber. It shows the strawberries I mentioned, as well as minerals, forest floor and spices (more Vosne than Corton, for what it's worth). The palate is still fresh and those tannic tannins have enough presence to define structure without imposing it. And it gains definition and presence with time. But is it a Grand Cru? Damn if I didn't struggle with that all question all evening long. Sometimes you judge a wine by the destination and sometimes by the voyage. I don't know where this wine will wind up and this may be as far as it will ever go. But I do know that the twists and turns it led me on are worthy of a Grand Cru. (Dec. 19, 2020)

Terre Nere, Etna Rosato, 2018

Tere Nere is one of my favorite wineries, ever. Almost every wine is special. The Rosato is pure magic, transfixing the fiery, volcanic character of the Etna reds in the light frame of a rosé. If the secret of a rosé is the perfect marriage of white and red, then it's a secret few have been able to uncover. Terre Nere have. (Dec. 12, 2020)

Domaine de L'Arlot, Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru, Clos des Forêts St. Georges, 2009

Another over-hyped producer from an over-hyped vintage. The nose makes a good first impression - forest floor, iron, vegetable soup - but the palate is simply horrible. Flat, short, unappetizing. What a dismal, expensive failure. (Dec. 12, 2020)

Verónica Ortega, Bierzo, Cobrana, 2017

An old raincoat won't ever let you down. This is the essence of a vital life, a marriage of woman and place. A field blend of Mencia and white grapes, it's floral on the nose and sappy and savory on the palate, with a finish destined to accompany charcuterie. (Dec. 12, 2020)

Feldstein, Sauvignon Blanc, 2018

A lovely Sauvignon, marrying the gooseberry of the Land Down Under's finest with a mineral note that suggest rocks and nut oil. (Dec. 14, 2020)

Jean-Luc Jamet, Collines Rhodaniennes IGP, Valine, 2017

In the hands of a great producer, the Collines Rhodaniennes IGP, a second tier appellation on the fringes of the great crus of the North Rhone (thus an IGP and not an AOP) is one of the great bargains of the world. And Jamet is more than a great producer, Jamet is one of the classic names of Cote Rotie. This wine won't offer the depth, definition or class of his Cote Roties, but it's on par with a good Crozes-Hermitage. The nose is lovely and redolent with olives and black pepper, the palate a bit limpid but still, it's succulent and juicy. (Dec. 16, 2020)

Quinta de Saes, Dão, Branco Reserva, 2018

I wasn't really planning to write a note. It was supposed to be an aperitif, but no one wanted much wine and I enjoyed it so much I just kept on with it. As much as I love Portuguese whites, this surprised me. I find the Dão whites to be the most mineral-laden out of the big three appellations (Dão, Duoro and Bairrada) and the least exotic and this fit spot on with my assessment. It sports enough marine/mineral aromas and flavors to compete with an excellent basic Chablis or a decent Chablis Premier Cru. It's totally in its prime now. (Dec. 18, 2020)