Domaine Buisson-Charles, Meursault Premier Cru, Gouttes d'Or, 2013
We were firmly convinced that this was premoxed upon the first pour. I was thinking, what do I open for backup? But then, a funny thing happened. No, not a funny thing. Call it a miracle, or maybe just an affirmation of faith, faith in the Church of Burgundy.
The nose was heavy with baked apples and cider, to start with. The acidity was good enough for us to give it a chance, though. The table was set, pleasantries exchanged and then the epiphany happened. Slowly, wisps of chalk and flint broke thorough on the nose. Like rays of sunlight. The bouquet became more complex and the texture and finish became more pronounced and refined. Truly Premier Cru material in prime maturity. I'm waxing poetic, but it really was a beautiful thing and a joyous experience. People always say be patient with Burgundy, but the pay off is not as common as we'd hope.
I've had the Gouttes d'Or 2011 a couple of times and sometimes it came off heavy and sometimes funky and flinty. In general, I think this is true for Buisson-Charles' range (in the mid-2010's, at least) and I never knew if the house style made for bottle variation or a weird maturity curve. Now, I realize the differences may have had more to do with how long the bottle had been opened.
|And the Old Master|
Lorenzo Accomasso, Barbera d'Alba, Pochi Filagn, 2015
A lot of history here. This is a legend few have heard of. Lorenzo Accomasso is over 90 years old and has been making wine since the early 50's. His output is small and meagerly exported. This specific bottle is less stellar. Maybe it was meant to be drunk younger. You sense it's the work of an old master, but it doesn't feel like a masterpiece. There's the rugged charm of Old School Piedmont on the nose, without the rugged texture of one on the palate, where it's a bit simple.