Seresin Estate, Marlborough, Pinot Noir Tatou , 2013
What I'm starting to learn about Seresin is that these wines need at least a couple of hours to open up. Their Burgougne peers - hmmm, I think somewhere between Village and Premier Cru nails it - actually need less time to open. Or, at least, I need less time to figure out where they're going. This is darker in hue and tone, and more tannic, than its far-flung cousins from Burgundy, but no less captivating and complex. It's a masculine Pinot, no Volnay or Chambolle. It has an earthy, rustic character. It vaguely hints at the exotic spices and there's forest floor aplenty as it airs. It's quite herbal, almost as though Seresin were afraid to harvest it too ripe and picked before full phenolic ripeness. It's not a sexy Pinot, by any means, and it's finish is too drying for my taste, but I like it and it does open nicely.
Pinot can be very fickle, even (or especially) in Burgundy. I've had simple Bourgognes (from pretty great producers, though) that would beat the Tatou while on the other hand it would put some Premier Crus to shame. If I had to make short sound bite, I'd say it has the aromatic complexity of a Premier Cru and the rusticity of a plain Village.
The bottom line is, after all this meandering, if you see a bottle, buy and try it. At the very least, it will expand your horizons.
(Aug. 7, 2020)
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