Lyrarakis, Voila, Assyrtiko, 2019
It's Greece's greatest grape, but in my initial Lyrarakis shopping frenzy, the Assyrtiko was the one wine I put off buying. It was probably a hipster gesture: buy the indigenous grapes no one had heard of, just not the one someone might have a chance of reading about. But Assyrtiko had just cause to become a trendy critics and sommeliers darling. It's a racy grape that unloads summer fruits and chalky aromas that combine for an exotic and savory effect.
And it has just enough shape and texture to make you nod and go "hmmm, this is a classic grape, even if I can't recognize it". Not every hipster grape can do that for you.
But, of course, maybe I'm just generalizing and proselytizing the grape. In any case, the Voila is simply a steal of a wine.