A Mixed Bag (June 2020)

Oddero, Barbaresco, Gallina, 2012
This is why I love this stuff. Tarry and dusty on the nose, almost Barolo-ish, as though it owes a debt to the yeasts in Oddero's headquarters in La Morra. But the nose talks in a serene volume that is totally Barbaresco and the palate has the soft, silky feel of Barbaresco and carries a complex, persistent array of flavors to a long finish. A wine of great finesse, a beguiling work of art. (June 16, 2020)

Clotaire Michal, Beaujolais-Villages, La Napoleon, 2017
Oooh, Beaujolais alert! My first thought was, another smelly Gamay, because it had that stinky, reductive/bretty thing going. But then that all blew away or morphed or whatever because all that nubile fruit developed a lovely dusty, sweaty dog-fur aroma, some baked mud too, enough to evoke a hike on the hill without overpowering the juicy, sexy, fruity side of Gamay. (June 1, 2020)

Château D'Escurac, Medoc, 2010
Dull. (June 4, 2020)

Chateau d'Armailhac, Pauillac 5me Cru, 2008
Four hours of slow-ox and then three hours of slowly sipping my way before the typical Pauillac iron and blood cut through the baby fat. It will never be great, but it would still appreciate being left in the cellar for three-five years to await its limelight. (June 9, 2020)

Weingut Keller,Rheinhessen, Westhofener Kirchspiel, Riesling Auslese, 2008
Great purity and lightness of fruit, its complexity needing time to unfold. Even then, it's a subtle sort of complexity, a swash of pastel watercolors. (June 10, 2020)

Feldstein, Grenache, 2014
A point with beguiling aromatics and texture. Nose and palate show roasted sherry tomatoes, red cherries and savory nuances halfway between garrigue and truffles, with fruit, tannins and acidity well balanced. A wine that is both flavorsome and captivating. (June 18, 2020)

Albino Rocca, Barbaresco, 2014
The winery's crown jewels are the wines made from the Ronchi vineyards that the family homestead overlooks. The regular Barbaresco is sourced from the Montersino vineyards in the San Rocco Seno d'Elvio commune, which is the lesser known of the communes eligible for the DOCG and is usually lumped with the more famous Treiso. This is pretty and fairly complex on the nose - tarry red fruit, herbs and spices, a touch medicinal in the background -  light and airy for its 14% ABV. Gains grip and texture with air. Pretty, like I said, but I've had better. (June 30, 2020)

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