Swan Song (May 30, 2020)

I visited Joseph Swan twice. My conclusions are rather harsh. It was like visiting a former beauty queen and finding out she's turned into a toothless hag. I shall not visit again. Out of all the wines I tasted, only one was worthy, the flagship wine that made their name. And it's a beauty.

Joseph Swan Vineyards, Russian River Valley, Pinot Noir Trenton Estate, 2014

This is the kind of autumnal Pinot that makes my heart flutter, with aromas of strawberries, rotting leaves and fresh earth that conjure a vision of walking through a forest - just call me Thoreau. There's also a touch of fresh brewed coffee in the background. I'm not a coffee drinker, but the smell of good, fresh brewed coffee is a beautiful thing. There's a round softness to the fruit that is buoyed by surprisingly jaunty acidity and wiry tannins and it all winds up in a long, biting finish. It's nuanced and complex, and builds up intensity very slowly -  although you usually don't need power and intensity to play the heart.