Yannick Amirault, Bourgueil, La Petite Cave, 2010


I posted recently about a couple of wines I'd been waiting a long time to experience. Here is another example. 

About 8 years ago, I drank a fairly mature Loire red, Catherine et Pierre Breton, Bourgueil, Les Perrieres, 1995. It reminded me of a leaner version of Bordeaux, but it was no less complex than a mature bottle from that more illustrious region. I'd always wanted to experience something like that again. But, the 1997 version I tried two years ago was hopelessly closed and I was never able to hold on to any other Loire red for longer than 7-8 years post vintage. Granted, a lot of Loire reds are readier at that age then their Bordeaux counterparts - it's a lither style, Bordeaux trappings on a Bourgogne frame - but I longed to experience again what they have to show when they turn the corner.

I almost managed it with the Petite Cave, 2006, which I drank first at 6 years of age and then 10, but it seemed to be developing complexity slowly. The 2010 is advancing more apace. Aromatically, it shows expressive red fruit with heaps of eastern spices and ground coffee. There's a richness on the nose that's only partially reflected on the palate - the palate is where it still has room and time to grow. The acidity is very fine, the texture silky, the finish refined , the fruit nuanced - yet it still feels as if the final flavors in the pot are only slowly simmering and they don't yet match the complexity and the evolving intensity of the bouquet.

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