Tuesday, January 24, 2017

Groovy Times

Yes, it's number one, the radio said
Groovy times have come to pass -
The Clash
Salomon, Kremstal, DAC Reserve, Berglagen, Von Stein, Grüner Veltliner, 2009

"2GrandCru, how many Austrian wines do you have?"

"Not enough."

And hardly any Grüner, I might add. Even though I like/love the grape a lot, I tend to opt for Rieslings, lately, because Rieslings is also something I always feel I never quite have enough of (although I do have lots of them). Anyway, the word on GruVe is it matures slowly, so what I do buy, I tend to drink fairly quickly, because it seems like there's no upside in just a little cellaring. Thus, I was happy to buy this seven year old from Eldad and see where medium term cellaring brought us. The nose is discreet, herbal and green - think of mint for reference - with perhaps just a hint of smoke. Other than that, yellow summer fruits, echoed on the palate, with is deep and wide, culminating in the signature spicy finish which is Austria's gift to the world of wine. (Nov. 15, 2016)

210 NIS.

Never one to easily sate an appetite, I continued on a mini GruVe binge.

Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, DAC Reserve, Lamm Erste Lage, Grüner Veltliner, 2010

Schloss Gobelsburg fascinates me, an ancient, venerable property bought and revived by a fanatic who earnestly attempts - and succeeds - to combine traditional styles and approaches with modern technique and hygiene. Now, I know this suggests hipster hype, so you'll just have to trust me. The Moosebrugger family and their team manage, more often than not, to live up to, even surpass, their ambitions. The Lamm, for example. So deep and full, it gives an almost sweet impression, certainly a riper one than the equally deep Salomon, yet that impression is derived from a vital, fleshy, dense and detailed substance - providing the wine with another decade of life at least. The character of the grape is equally typical, similarly evoking yellow summer fruit, as well as smoke, herbs and spices. Where it pulls away from the Von Stein is with a curlicue of nut oil that is elusive, yet confidently insists on attention. That inspired interplay with the senses, backed by the density of the fruit is what, for me, defines the fruit of a great vineyard. And, a great team. (Nov. 25, 2016)

259 NIS.

Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, DAC Reserve, Grub Erste Lage, Grüner Veltliner, 2010

Without tasting the Lamm and Grub side by side, it's challenging to grasp how the nuances of terroir assert themselves, but this is also a great wine. This, too, is dense and ripe, equally detailed, playing out cantaloupes and assorted summer fruit against an equally captivating backdrop of smoke and herbs, at the same time adding a layer of minerals that was not obvious in the Lamm. I just love these pair, easily the equal of many a Bourgogne Premier Cru. (Jan. 14, 2017)

211 NIS.

Hirsch, Kamptal, DAC Reserve, Kammerner Lamm Erste Lage, Grüner Veltliner, 2011

From the same grand Lamm vineyard, this is both greener and more mineral scented, more white pepper than spices. Among other differences, this has a lean, taut vibrancy, in contrast with the sober classicism of the Gobelsburg  - although, Grüner being what it is, the Hirsch also has plenty of heft and the same canopy of summer fruit. (Nov. 26, 2016)

225 NIS.

These are all imported, distributed and sold by Fat Guy/Wine Domaines of Austria. All will age well, assuming, that is, you can find the willpower to keep away from them.

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