Tuesday, October 18, 2016

A Man And His Horse - The Wines Of Olivier Guyot

How can you not love a domain that salutes the retirement of their beloved horse Indigo?


Bourgogne, 2014

This is a hidden gem in the Bourgogne Crown catalog - the wines are humble in the way they favor nuanced finesse and subtle complexity over power and oomph. Actually, they do have understated power, which they exhibit after starting out delicately dumb and then slowly gaining definition and intensity with air. This is what I look for in Burgundy, and the wines never fail to charm me, even this declassified Marsannay, its cool, black tinted fruit and pungent, saline earthiness lingering surprisingly long, due to the tasteful, tasty, tart finish. (Aug. 1, 2016)

110 NIS.

Marsannay, La Montagne, 2013

As much as I do love Guyot, but I shied away from this white for a while, even though the 2013 wasn't the first vintage offered in the catalog. The reason being I've never been too impressed with the few Cote de Nuits whites I've tried. But, this turned out to be tasty and forceful, albeit not too complex or deep. What it does provide is very pungent aromas of apple peel and chalk and electric acidity that push the fruit to great length. It could be the first CdN white to thrill me, now for that electric vibe - later, who knows? With that acidity, it will age a few years. (Sept. 13, 2016)

160 NIS.

Marsannay Rose, 2014

And this is the rose and it's sour and saline on the palate, with typical Pinot aromatics on the nose. Surprisingly powerful, yet focuses that power into an appropriately lean frame. (Sept. 16, 2016)

95 NIS.

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Les Champeaux, 2011

The list price is 390 NIS, but because Lifshitz and Eldad offered it at amazing discount, I only paid 260, which is ridiculous. This is not the stereotypically muscular and sauvage Gevrey. Instead, this shows the floral and elegant side of the appellation, starting out deceptively light, slowly evolving a lithe, yet powerful, tannic structure which persists, but never overwhelms. It always remains true to the initial impression of elegance, as well as to its Gevrey origins and Premier Cru pedigree. Very complete, long and savory. Despite 2011's reputation for early drinking, despite the obvious joys it already provides, the way this builds up to a rusty crescendo bodes well for the cellar. (Sept. 18, 2016)

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