Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Another Burgundy Night (Jan. 25, 2016)

Burgundy
You see in black and white, feel in slow motion
 drown myself in joy until I wake up tomorrow
The second meeting of our new Burgundy tasting group: an excellent white, an excellent red, and a couple of surprises.

Francois Jobard, Meursault Premier Cru, Poruzots, 2002

There's lots of minerals on the nose. Honestly, just lots and lots. A freakin' quarry. All in technicolor detail. And it doesn't stop there. Let's move on to the palate, which shows great focus and driven by salivating acidity.

Burgundy Wine Collection, 350-450 NIS, depending on the vintage and when you bought it.

Jean Paul et Benoit Droin, Chablis Grand Cru, Le Clos, 2007

The nose is expansive and funky, with the marine character of Chablis a bit obscured by oak, even moreso on the palate, where it is evident as mouth feel, rather than flavors. Beyond the oak, the palate is fatter than I'd expected (although the wines were served blind, this was my bottle), despite the ample acidity. As is the case with many Chablis Grand Cru, especially le Clos, I suppose, this is less typical of Chablis than many Premier Cru (I blame the oak, naturally, which seems like an attempt by many producers to differentiate their Grand Crus).

Giaconda, 350 NIS.

William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Bourgos, 2008

I've been wary of Fevre recently, so my impressions are surprisingly positive. The nose is very reductive at first, with a funk reminiscent of boiled cabbages. I'm actually partial to this, but it bothers me for philosophical reasons: I find it obscures more subtle nuances. Anyway, that all blows off, to show a very measured handful of chalk, and, despite what I wrote about the Droin (as well as my recent experiences with Fevre), there is no sense of any overt manipulation to justify the Grand Cru label, no overt evidence of oak, just a very elegant and focused wine.

Wine Route, this is usually a 300 NIS wine.

Domaine de l'Arlot, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru, Clos Des Forets St. Georges, 2005

The nose is a mixture of rough and ripe, dusty and a bit green/stemmy at first, but develops decent complexity. Then, the palate is muscular and taut, still young, with great acidity. But why do I even bother to talk about great acidity with the kind of Bourgognes my friends bring? Just take it for granted the acidity will be at least very good, unless stated otherwise - even for a producer that is somewhat unpopular among my peers.

Recent vintages go for about 400 NIS at Burgundy Wine Collection.

Domaine Hubert Lignier, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, La Perriere, 2007

Hubert Lignier, on the other hand, is very popular in my circle - and if Wine Route was still importing, I'd buy lots, even though the Premier Crus are not cheap. There's graphite here, and brett, and peat, which isn't something I find in many Bourgognes, While the peaty front is interesting, I'm exasperated because I find myself reaching for the lovely, exotic perfume lounging beyond it, which is Burgundy to a T - or rather to a B. The palate, however, is pure pleasure, with sweet yet lithe structured fruit, lovely and languid, with a long finish.

Prince unknown.

Bouchard, Beaune Premier Cru, Greves. Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus, 2003

There's sour cherries and minerals, which I like - ripe tannins and extracted fruit, which I don't. The tobacco I'm partial to, even though I don't think it really represents Bourgogne, The style isn't at great odds with my tastes - because I'd enjoy it in other settings - so much as askance with my expectations of Bourgogne.

Prince unknown.

Etienne De Montille, Beaune Premier Cru, Perrieres, 2009

Again, this is peaty and bretty, but, it's better integrated with the forest floor and spices in the background. Also, balanced, tangy, spicy tannins. Very good and still needs time.

Recent vintages go for 290 NIS at Burgundy Wine Collection.

No comments: