Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Bourgogne Crown 2014 Catalog - Final Tasting (Jan. 29, 2015)

Corkscrew and the damage done
Daniel Lifshitz has a new partner, Eldad Levy, a.k.a. Fat Guy. The merger has already made a foothold in Eldad's site, and I assume the portfolio to be fully available there in the near future. The prices quoted are from the original catalog, sans discount.

Anyway, while I've drank my merry way through a lot of the catalog already, I yet joined Daniel in the final tasting of the 2014 catalog in Tel Aviv's Raphael restaurant as there were wines I either hadn't tasted yet or wanted another look at.

Domaine Chauvenet, Nuits-St.-Georges, 2010

Red fruit, forest floor, a touch of animal essence. Smells fine and drinks elegant, good acids, tannins still gripping. Feels lighter than I'd expect from 2010, but I believe it will gain body in bottle. 210 NIS.

Domaine Olivier Guyot, Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champs", 2010

This is more intense than the Chauvenet on the nose, and I think very Gevrey in character. More complex, too. Far less ready, but showing much appeal, due to the somewhat juicier acidity. 270 NIS.

Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay, 2011

The nose, surprisingly, is more intense than the Nuits and the Gevrey, and ready, even eager, to play. Here again I find red fruit and forest floor, maybe some sweat. The palate, in contrast to the aromatic intensity, is soft and luscious. Very fun to drink. Saline and tasty. 265 NIS.

Domaine Serafin, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2010

Now I'm truly captivated! This is intense and typical Gevrey, the nose making you sit up and pay close, close attention. Long and focused. Gevrey is supposed to be muscular and this is, but in a sinewy manner. 280 NIS.

Domaine Pavelot, Savigny-Les-Beaune Premier Cru, Aux Guettes, 2011

An elegant  nose, meandering and round on the palate. I like Pavelot but the combination of vintage, vineyard and order in the tasting makes for a bad showing. 260 NIS.

The Savigny-Les-Beaune Premier Cru, Dominode, 2011 is better balanced on both nose and palate. It's more complex and of a finer breed. Close to Volnay in personality. Lovely saline finish. 290 NIS,

Domaine Chauvenet, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru, Vaucrains, 2010

Mostly about sweet fruit on the nose with a touch of minerals, compact fruit that hints at length and savoriness on the palate. The mineral finish hints at potential. 430 NIS.

The 2007 is an offhand fast forward to show that potential, although 2010 is expected to outshine 2007. It shows that same savory finish, that's for sure, and fine elegance. 410 NIS.

Domaine Alain Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin "Mes Favorites", 2011

This is always a very clean, even floral, Gevrey, only hinting at the Gevrey sauvage. What I like about Burguet is the wines are very tasty but in an understated, almost elusive, manner. 310 NIS.

Domaine Serafin, Morey St. Denis Premier Cru, Les Millandes , 2002

This has matured nicely, without a hint of fraying, sheer joy of a wine that took its time to arrive. Leather, truffles. Long, firm yet giving. Showcases why 2002 is a great one. 465 NIS

Domaine Taupenot Merme, Morey St. Denis Premier Cru, La Riotte, 2010

Fruity and floral. Regal. Very clean. Very young, but its youth shows as a friendly monolithism. I expect time will expose what lies inside that soft marble. For example the minerals that are only hinted at after air hits the glass. 410 NIS.

Domaine Alain Burguet, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Rouges du Dessus, 2011

The nose is likely as closed as any wine in this tasting was going to be, seeing as Daniel had opened all the wines earlier in the afternoon, but it shows the floral clarity and purity Burguet always displays. So there's hope. 590 NIS.

Domaine Pierre Duroche, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Lavaut-St.-Jacques, 2010

The new kid in the portfolio. Actually even more closed than the Dessus. Good fruit in there. 425 NIS.

Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Caillerets, 2011

Lime and minerals. Exemplary nose but the palate is at an awkward stage, one it hadn't shown the last time I tasted it. I expect it to grow out of the adolescent phase, but I base that estimate on intuition and the trust I've built on Daniel's palate. 300 NIS.

Domaine Matrot, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru, 2011

Minerals a la Chablis, fresh, steely and racy. A hint of brioche. Terrific. 350 NIS.

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