Friday, September 26, 2014

Yotam Sharon's 40th Birthday (Sept. 11, 2014)

Wine creates a special kind of bond, which is formed when you recognize you and a wine friend both love a wine because of stylistic preferences that reflect your personality and aesthetic philosophy. It's not just a paraphrase of the old Seinfeld routine: "You like Chambolle? I like Chambolle! Let's be friends!"

It is actually about sharing a love for something that moves you.

The first time I met Yotam, he brought a Pegau 2001 to a tasting. Good call. If you do bring a Chateaneuf to a tasting, better make it Pegau, a sane man's CdP. I don't mean that to be a back handed compliment. It really made perfect sense that night, and it was a lovely bottle. It was a good omen, a precursor for a bunch of fun evenings. I really enjoyed Yotam's humor, observations and insights then, and I've enjoyed them ever since.

Anyway, thanks for company, man, and thanks for giving me the opportunity to share good wines with you over the years.


Col d'Orcia, Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva, 1980

Very mature, yet still fresh, the fruit still lively and the acidity perfectly juicy, a touch of mildew, cedar and mushrooms adding complexity, chives adding Tuscan character. It's not a great bottle at first, but quite tasty and improving to such a degree we were actually considering this might be a case of yet another wine fraud  - I mean, a 34 year old Sangiovese?

I need to get some Col d'Orcia - I rarely drink Brunello, yet I see that I had a Poggo al Vento 1995 three years ago that I thought was the best Brunello I ever had.

Serragilli, Barbaresco Riserva, 2007

Typical nebbiolo nose, with rose petals, spices and red fruit. It's quite tannic, yet also ripe, so while I think  that the balance works, I have to agree with comments that the wine-making shows signs of imprecision.

Luccarelli, Bianco Salento, Chardonnay Malvasia, 2011

Lime and spices. Enlightening, in a way, but doesn't really convey, to me, any special character or sense of locale.

Vilmart & Cie, Cuvée Rubis, n.v.

So Pinot, so Champagne! Or should I put it, Champagne laced with the exotic magic of Pinot that lights up the taste buds. I could die happy drowning in this earthy, brothy and complex concotion.

Chateau Beaucastel, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 1999

The best CdP I've had in the last five years. A very spicy, animalistic,  furry nose  and very complex. The palate is reasonably lively, and I think this works better than a more vaunted vintage would.

Petit Figeac, Saint Emilion, 2009

The second wine of Chateau Figeac is an excellent young claret, with red and black fruit, tasty tannins, and an obvious Merlot character. To my tastes, it plays a meaner guitar than the Beaucastel at half the price.

Domaine Garon, Cote-Rotie, 1999

Black pepper and blood define the rules of engagement. A lovely luncheon wine, fresh and vivid, soft and comforting, the fruit mellow, the tannins resolved.

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