Friday, August 1, 2014

Double Feature (Jul. 28, 2014)

Pavelot - The Man!

Lamy - Also the Man!

Yet another Bourgogne Crown tasting, after a short hiatus. I can understand why Daniel Lifshitz paired Pavelot and Lamy for a tasting: two producers from undervalued villages who don't go for excessive and untoward flash. Tasty wines with a quiet, chiseled beauty.

Domaine Pavelot, Savigny Les Beaune, 2011

Classic, savory and tasty. Red fruit, spices, a hint of leather, fairly complex for what it is. Rustic tannins, comparatively speaking, for Beaune: for my tastes, rusty but not coarse. 165 NIS.

Domaine Pavelot, Savigny Les Beaune Premier Cru, Aux Guettes, 2011

A step up in intensity, if not necessarily in complexity, with a hint of flowers and minerals thrown in for good effect. The nose is certainly quite pretty and charming even now, while the tannins suggest a need for a short term rest. 260 NIS.

Domaine Pavelot, Savigny Les Beaune Premier Cru, La Dominode, 2010

Corked.

Domaine Pavelot, Savigny Les Beaune Premier Cru, La Dominode, 2011

Deep and too tannic for true pleasure at this time. But the minerals and rust on the nose are a pleasure to sniff even now. And the pleasure grows greater when the nose expands to show some flowers. A welterweight Pommard, perhaps? 290 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Premier Cru, Derrière chez Edouard Rouge, 2011

If the Dominode is a wine considered by many to require time, than what can I say about this? It even smells closed, and, although the palate is more inviting than the Dominode's, I can almost sense the jism it seems to be keeping back, as even a short time glass reveals very expressive minerality and fantastic acidity. Great potential. 275 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Premier Cru, Clos de Meix, 2011

Citrus, minerals, almost masquerading as a Chablis Grand Cru, great acidity, a hint of minerals. 295 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Premier Cru, Clos de Meix, 2010

More developed than the 2011, more about lime than about minerals at first, more elegant and finessed, cleaner. The 2011 is flashier right now, but the 2010 is the date that makes your knees quiver when you realize at the end of the evening how truly, deeply lovely she is. So I guess I'm saying that 2010 is the better vintage, but then we all knew that, right? 280 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Premier Cru, Derrière chez Edouard Blanc, 2011

Minerals again, more finesse than the Clos de Meix 2011 displays, with a quiet depth akin to the Clos de Meix 2010. A certain sweetness of fruit is deftly counterpointed by the acidity. 300 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Premier Cru, Clos de la Chateniere, 2011

I think the balance of fruit and minerals is really spot on, here. So, while the impact of the minerals in the previous wines was quite impressive, it is more complete and complex here, because it's not as obvious. I always prefer subtlety. 360 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Premier Cru, En Remilly, 2011

We drank this last and my conclusion is that Lamy shines in each of his terroirs. He takes a handful of pure fruit and mixes it with a thimbleful of minerals. The exact quantities may vary, but the end result is a great balm for the mind and soul. 360 NIS.

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