Friday, June 6, 2014

Taking Care Of Business (May, 2014)

Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal DAC Reserve, Kammerner Renner 1er Lage, Gruner Veltliner, 2011

A broad, rich, peppery nose, gaining nuances of minerals in time, with fruit across the street from mango and right next door to lime. The aromas are echoed on the palate, which is also broad and rich; and - while tasty with a long, persistent, complex finish - doesn't have the wow factor or finesse I look for in a 1er Lage . Worth the price, though. (May 1, 2014)

Fat Guy, 185 NIS.


Domaine Matrot, Saint Romain, 2008

I don't own a lot of Matrot whites, but even if I did own a whole bunch of them, I wouldn't open any in a hurry - because if a simple Saint Romain plays so well at five-six years post harvest, then the entire lineup is probably very cellar worthy. It could be performing better, mind (and I do believe the '07 would leave it choking on its exhaust fumes) but this is  what a subtly mature white Bourogne is all about, one aspect anyway: green apples, flint and dry grass on the nose - savory acidity to complement your meal on the palate. (May 4, 2014)

Bourgogne Crown, 180 NIS.



Meo-Camuzet, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru, Aux Murgers, 2007

Expansive, detailed and rich, while still within the classic Bourgogne paradigm of lithe, supple wines - this is the Meo-Camuzet style (when it works!), as I've  come to know it over the past five years. There's more black fruit than I find in my usual go-to producers, but this is hardly over-ripe and there's plenty of Nuits earthiness and Vosne spices to keep me happy. The tannins are bitter but almost seamless, which for me is a drawback, as I like my Burgundies to snap with love bites, but this is a worthy Premier Cru. (May 6, 2014)

Burgundy Wine Collection, about 500 NIS.

Yannic Amirault,  Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, La Mine, 2011

This is the sister cuvee to Amirault's Bourgeuil La Coudraye, and it seems deeper and more serious. It shows red fruit, violets, earth and lead pencil, a very classic little wine, still stern, and not quite as easy going and tasty as the Coudraye. (May 8, 2014)

17 GBP.

Jean Lallement, Champagne Brut, Verzenay Grand Cru, n.v.

Ooh la la, Lallement again. I just love this wine, with its funky character, all chicken broth and cashews framing vaguely citrusy fruit, with more depth and complexity than a non-vintage has a right to possess. I love it so much that I went through my entire, not-in expensive, three bottle stash within half a year. And would do so again, just as soon as Eldad Levy brings in more. (May 9, 2014)

Fat Guy, about 300 NIS.

Domaine Matrot, Blagny Premier Cru, La Piece Sous Le Bois, 2009

This is very Cote de Beaune in character, friendly red fruit with a pungent, earthy note. Due to the bass toned acidity of the 2009 vintage, most of the freshness and charm lies in the complex aromatics, and the previous bottle was livelier, but all in all, this is a lovely effort and I have great expectations of the 2010. (May 10, 2014)

70 USD.

Shvo, Chenin Blanc, 2011

Basically, it almost figures Gabi Sadan would come up with a spicy, kick-ass Chenin that leans more towards the dry, combustive minerality of Savennieres rather than the more fluid Vouvray. I hope he tames it enough in a few years just so the palate is a little softer and rounder, but even today, that's a mighty interesting, unique and complex nose. (May 11, 2014)

Pierre Gaillard, Saint Joseph, 2005

Going back to the stash of 2005 Gaillards I found at Futnam And Mason for twenty odd pounds, this is still remarkably vibrant for a nine year old Saint Joseph - and not even one of the premium, single vineyard cuvees. The nose is earthy and peppery, with hints of bacon, utterly typical for a north Rhone, less typical in the sense that it would convince many in a blind tasting that it's actually an entry level Hermitage or a Cornas. Starting to dry out, though, and a little hard to wade through. (May 17, 2014)

Domaine Ballorin, Cote de Nuits Villages, "Le Village", 2011

I loved this so much when I had it last month that it was the one wine I wanted most to return to ever since. This is such an over-achieving little wine, driven by fantastic acidity and supple fruit that conjures earthy red fruit flavors and aromas that imply very non-interventionist wine making. (May 20, 2014)

Bourgogne Crown, 150 NIS.



Vilmart & Cie, Cuvee Rubis, nv.

This is simply gorgeous. While the bottling is a Premier Cru, this has all the complexity, grace, finesse and elegance of a Cote d'Or Grand Cru. But don't dare think this is just a Pinot Noir in a sparkling idiom, it's pure Champagne, an amazing one. (May 24, 2014)

Fat Guy, 359 NIS.

Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Bourgogne, 2011

I misplaced my note, but anyway, this is an excellent Bourgogne, actually declassified Volnay, showing the mineral aspects of the village rather than the stereotypical femininity. Took long enough to open for me to dismiss it at first, but i wound up liking it a lot. Daniel Lifshitz sure picked some overachieving Bourgognes for his portfolio. (May 28, 2014)

Bourgogne Crown, 160 NIS.

Vincent Paris, Cornas, Granit 30, 2009

This is a young vines from relatively moderate inclination (the "30" represents both the age of the vines and degree of inclination). It's typical of modest Syrah, with aromas of peppery black fruit, smooth and fruity on the palate, with soft tannins and low acidity. A nice wine, but even though I knew it was basically an entry level Cornas, I expected more out of it. (May 31, 2014)

27.5 GBP.

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