Friday, June 20, 2014

Guys And Dolls (May 25, 2014)

Another Bourgogne Crown tasting, this time loosely based around the theme of feminine Cote de Nuits (Chambolle, Vosne) versus the more masculine ones (Gevrey, Morey). Except for the Chassagne appertif and the the Chapitre, these wines were opened in the morning of the tasting, so you have to figure they all need a few years of cellaring.

Chapitre, the Bourgogne that walks like a Premier

Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne-Montrachet, 2011

Chassagne spiciness, with the four squared frame sand-papered smooth. 190 NIS.

Domaine Serafin, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2010

The Gevrey-ness perfume jumps out of the glass, gamy and earthy, lightly floral, quite tannic despite the lengthy airing, yet with no little elegance. The airing also brings out a lot of detail. Lovely. 280 NIS.

Domaine Olivier Guyot, Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Champs", 2010

A 'heavier' nose than the Serafin, not as giving or complex now either. The fruit is present, but with little detail. Aired as much as the Serafin, so perhaps the air was too much in this case. At any rate, in need of time. 270 NIS.

La Maison Romane, Gevrey-Chambertin "La Justice", 2011

The manliest of the Gevreys, without any loss of finesse and elegance. A deep wine. Gamy, sweaty and mineral laden. Full of flavors, yet the backbone is streamlined and focused. A good example of why I love the Maison. 340 NIS.

Domaine Bizot, Bourgogne "Le Chapitre", 2011

Intense mildew over the red fruit, yet that pungency is handled with a light touch and sheer elegance. Very long. This is famous for being one of three 'generic' Bourgognes legally allowed to use a single vineyard designation and it drinks like a Premier Cru. 375 NIS.

Domaine Amiot-Servelle, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Charmes, 2011

Heady, like sticking your head into a bouquet, yet delicate and feminine for all that. Very fresh with a very good backbone. 500 NIS.

Domaine Serafin, Morey St. Denis Premier Cru, Les Millandes, 2010

Not feminine so much as hedonistic, although when I say that I mean Roman Empire hedonistic as opposed to Wall Street hedonistic, since the character of 2010 gives the liqueur driven hedonism a Jedi Knight mystique. Fantastic acidity, too. 435 NIS.

Domaine Bizot, Vosne-Romanee "Les Jachees", 2011

Very Vosne, very 2011. Yet there is also a flowery Chambolle essence. Very layered, but like all the Bizots I've tasted, the low ABV creates a somewhat alient impact. Even my palate is not quite used to such low alcohol content. Yet the acidity and fruit are so savory, I love it without quite knowing why. 560 NIS.

Domain Alain Burguet, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Rouges du Dessus, 3011

The first impression is that of great length. And that's all there is for a while until the Vosne character takes time to show. It's very Burguet, yet true to Vosne. Very tart with a soft yet controlled backbone. 590 NIS.

Domaine Amiot-Servelle, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Amoureuses, 2011

Languid Chambolle florality, with exotic spices. Complex and long, focused. And oh yeah, tasty as hell. 1050 NIS.


Domaine Serafin, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru, 2008

TCA tainted. There's great stuff in there, a great wine in the making, but the TCA ruins it, which isn't the wine's fault fault, of course. Although the concentration of the fruit does manage to do a very admirable job in covering up the cork taint. 790 NIS.

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