Friday, May 30, 2014

With A Little Help From My Rieslings

There's a place, where I can go

Weingut Hirsch, Kampta, DAC Reserve  Zobinger Gaisberg 1er Lage, Riesling, 2009

The initial reductive stink clears up to show a typically Austrian melange of sauteed herbs and spices over green apples and cold slate - what's less typical, I think, is the overlay of Atlantic salt. This is very much a 1er Lage, as the aromatic complexity and intensity is followed up by excellent depht, purity and freshness on the palate, and the wine as a whole simply unfolds and blossoms beautifully over the course of the evening. (May 3, 2014)

Fat Guy, 225 NIS.


Donnhoff, Nahe, Oberhäuser Brücke, Riesling Spätlese, 2006

This is a really great wine, because when you break it down to its components, there doesn't seem to be a whole lot going on, yet it's just full to the brim with magic. Starting with the the complex aromatics of peaches and apples  awash with a touch of petrol and minerals and exuding an elegant, persistent, vaguely saline presence - and leading to, and culminating with, a great, clear purity. Tasty as hell, longer than waiting in line at Sea World, yet almost as light as brook water. (May. 15, 2014)

Giaconda, 250 NIS?

Spreitzer, Rheingau, Oestricher Lenchen, Riesling Spätlese "303", 2005

Just as great and complex as the Donnhoff Brücke, in a totally different style. First of all, this Spatlese is famous (among German Riesling geeks) for its 105º,  placing it on the threshold of beerenauslese in terms of ripeness. Therefore, it's much richer and more extroverted than the Donnhoff, almost tropical, with a zany note of ginger, and no less of a geology seminar. If the Brücke is the warmth of early autumn, this is a midsummer night picnic. (May 16, 2014)

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