Friday, May 9, 2014
Bourgogne Crown Red Tasting (Apr. 1, 2014)
Red Burgundy - it's complicated.
This the third Bourgogne Crown tasting orchestrated by my friend Daniel Lifshitz - and now that I've got the due diligence bit out of the way, I want to say that while he's obviously not in this to lose money, it's always an intellectual pleasure drinking Burgundies with the dude - he knows his stuff and his approach and tastes are uncannily similar to mine. Which is one reason why the 2GrandCru blog has been bloated with Burgundy themes lately.
We started off this primarily red tasting with with a white.
Domaine Matrot, Saint Romain, 2008
Dry grass, apples, citrus. Very pretty, sort of an land bound Chablis. Good QPR village wine that is a very welcome followup to the 2007 version, which was also simply barrels of fun. 180 NIS.
Alain Burguet, Bourgogne, Les Pince Vin, 2008
Light, ephemeral with aromas of red fruit complemented by leather, spices, dusty carpet. Light to middle bodied, well balanced, very 2008 in its delicate fruit, going for low keyed elegance rather than power. 160 NIS.
Domaine Pavelot, Savigny-Les-Beaune Premier Cru, Aux Guettes, 2011
Aromas of minerals, clay and red fruit combine to produce a very taut, suggestive complexity. The grainy tannins on the palate are starting to integrate, but the overall effect is still nubile. Lovely for all that. 260 NIS.
Domaine Blain-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Clos St. Jean Rouge, 2011
Both the nose with its black pepper personality and the elegant palate register an impact that is not so much a "wow" than it is a "what the! This is good". Complex and interesting, for the aromatics and for the way the soft, yet persistent tannic lattice forces the palate to pay close attention. 235 NIS.
La Maison Romane, Marsannay "Langeroies", 2011
Monolithic and concentrated, with a warm yet reserved, sweaty, mineral-laden friendliness that hints at complex potential some two, three years (Daniel says more) down the road. 260 NIS.
Domaine Amiot Servelle, Chambolle-Musigny, 2011
A just okay nose that is spicy and floral with hints of clay, while sweet fruit that overwhelms the tannins on the palate. An interesting wine but rather humdrum in the context of the tasting. Observation: the 2010 Servelle Charmes was freakin' amazing, whereas the village of that year also failed to impress me. A pattern, perhaps? 320 NIS.
Domaine Alain Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin, "Mes Favorites", 2011
Decent-plus aromatic complexity, with Vosnee spices, as well as minerals, flowers, sweat. Starts tannic and ends fruity and sweet, without an interesting middle ground, for which I blame Daniel's decision to decant. 310 NIS.
Domaine Bizot, Vosnee-Romanee, 2011
Very Vosnee, spicy and floral as well. Black fruit, sweet, elegant, with a soft yet persistent tannic background. Good potential. 460 NIS.
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, 2011
Rich, yet structured, complex spiciness on the nose; languid and tasty on the palate, with sour red fruit with savory tannins. Just good, thus far. 400 NIS.
Domaine Chauvenet, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru, Les Perrieres, 2008
Elegant and harmonic, yet embryonic. Stoney and gamey, with sweet, succulent fruit and a saline finish. A class act. 350 NIS.
Domaine Olivier Guyot, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Fuees, 2010
Primary, nubile red fruit, with notes of blood and just a hint of flowers. Balanced, saline, tasty. Ach, this is good. 450 NIS.
Domaine Taupenot Merme, Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru, 2010
Sweaty, spicy, Chambertin ripeness on the nose. Full, funky and powerful. Doesn't yet show Grand Cru finesse or mystique, but there is depth and breadth of appropriate dimensions. 900 NIS.