Friday, May 23, 2014

And All The Crus Come Rolling Out For You (Apr. 27, 2014)

Echezeaux - just one of the wonderful that Crus Daniel opened
A Premier and Grand Cru tasting, chez Daniel Lifshitz' Bourgogne Crown, for hardcore Burgundy lovers on the hunt for purity, clarity and nuances.

Domaine Blain-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, Clos St. Jean Blanc, 2011

An impressive, mineral laden nose, if a bit one dimensional at first, and savory palate. A good start to the main body of the tasting. 300 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin Premier Cru, Clos de la Chateniere, 2011

Similar aromatics, a little fresher and more complex, livelier fruit and acidity. Very tasty with a saline finish a la Chablis.360 NIS.

Domaine Matrot, Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru, 2011

Daniel really likes wines with minerals. This shows just enough pears and honey to place it as Meursault, though there is more focus and cut than I'd expect from Meursault. 350 NIS.

Domaine Chauvenet, Nuits St. Georges Premier Cru, Les Vaucrains, 2010

Both flowery and earthy, a little gamy, with red fruit. Flashy on the palate, yet with no little depth, super tasty with great tannin management. 430 NIS.

Domaine Amiot-Servelle, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Les Charmes, 2011

I miss the intensely floral character of the 2010 (?) although it is certainly flowery as Chambolle should be, especially after some time in glass - thought you all should be aware that Daniel opened it 12 hours ahead of time and then decanted it. Fine and elegant and the extensive airing lends it a very silky texture. 500 NIS.

Domaine Alain Burguet, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Rouges du Dessus, 2005

I wanted to like it more, but for me, this was a gap in an otherwise excellent line-up. On the one hand, full and friendly, sweet with decent balance and a saline finish. But on the other, not very suggestive of Vosne. Nor very long. 850 NIS.

Domaine Olivier Guyot, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru, 2010

Too much black liqueur on the nose at first, then calms down to show a finessed completeness. Young in its simplicity, but very clean cut and drinkable. Very elegant. Grows on me as it develops in glass, shedding the youthful over-vigor and developing complexity and Cote de Nuits exotic spices. 600 NIS.

Domaine Alain Chavy, Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru, 2011

Ultra elegant, cool and mentholated. Doesn't put out like the Premier Crus, until suddenly it blossoms with finely laced minerals - as though to signal, "anything a lesser vineyard can do, I can do with greater finesse". 1300 NIS.

Domaine Bizot, Echezeaux Grand Cru, 2011

Spicy, leathery, very elegant and balanced. It arguably has the deepest nose of the evening and is maybe the tastiest in the way the sweetness of the fruit complements the savory, saline finish. Lovely. 1100 NIS.

Domaine Taupenot Merme, Mazoyeres Chambertin Grand Cru, 2007

Intense and funky, with Grand Cru power, a complex, deep, detailed nose I could sniff forever with intense spices and roasted earth. The palate is tasty, but still sulky, if not outright growling. This and the Bizot are obvious candidates for making the connoisseurs very happy one day. 900 NIS.

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