Just Rewards (Apr. 16, 2014)

My deal with the universe is, I run an important race, I get to open a Champagne. Not that I necessarily need an excuse, but it does make a potentially astonishing drink an even more memorable experience.

Case in point:

Jean Lallament, Verzenay Grand Cru, Reserve Rose, n.v.

What a focused, yet expressive nose: all the vital energy deep inside the earth of Verzenay seems to flower in a a display of strawberries, minerals, mushrooms and brioche. The palate, too, is a geology lesson - long, detailed, savory, fully echoing the portrait that the aromas paint. This is, unsurprisingly, an elaboration of the Lallament house style, as depicted in the regular non-vintage cuvee, and an uncommonly funky thing of beauty I could thrive on forever.

Fat Guy, 319 NIS.

We drank through the Lallament way too soon (Eldad Levy, I will call you shortly!) and needed more wine to top off the night, so I chose what some might call a minor wine, but which I find to be a relevation.

Benoit Ente, Aligote, 2011

My friend Gal Zohar calls this the best Aligote he's ever tasted and I tend to agree, because it surely matches the Lallament in its nigh defiant individualism. The nose so pungent with minerals you could almost use the olfactory memories as a real estate statement, while the palate is fresh and lively, with a hint of olive brine and vibrant acidity. It's a little wine, make no mistake about it, but it's a great little wine.

Bourgogne Crown, 90 NIS.