Friday, April 25, 2014

Bourgogne Crown White Tasting (Mar. 21, 2014)

WOTN
There's more than one way to build up a Burgundy portfolio. One is to hook up with the obvious marquee names, and Tomer Gal has already cornered the local market with the obvious suspects, leaving Daniel Lifshitz and Bourgogne Crown the low road: find a bunch of relative unknowns through a lot of hard legwork and passion.

This installment of Daniel's annual tasting covers the white wines, which showed their origins with great clarity and typicity: the Chassagnes were the sturdiest, and Corton-Charlemagne exotic, the Pulignies showing the most finesse and purity while all the duds were from Meursault. Even the lesser known appellations seemed to say, "I come from a really interesting place".

Domaine Blain-Gagnard, Chassagne Montrachet, 2011

Flint and apples, quite elegant, especially for Chassagne. A very tasty and pretty village wine. 215 NIS.

Domaine Rapet, Pernard Vergelesses Premier Cru, En Caredeux, 2011

Compared to the Blain-Gagnard, there is greater saline complexity on the nose, as well as flint. The palate is heavier but still refreshing, not at all tiresome. 250 NIS.

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Premier Cru, Clos de Meix, 2011

A cool and initially reticent nose that shows pure minerality, as well as flowers. Full yet elegant. 295 NIS.

Domaine Morey-Coffinet, Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Caillerets, 2011

A mute nose, with hints of clay, and no sense of oak on the palate. Fresh and focused, with Chassagne spiciness, sans the four squareness that often characterizes the terroir. 300 NIS.

Domaine Alain Chavy, Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Clavoillons, 2011

Typical nose, with some dry grass, along with apples and flint. A savory wine that is among the most balanced of the night. Really excellent with almost lime-y acidity and hardly a trace of oak. 330 NIS.

Domaine Buisson-Charles , Meursault Premier Cru, Gouttes d'Or, 2011

Lightly oxidized on the nose at first, then shows baked pears and some minerals. Alas, the palate is too sweet and heavy for me at this time. 530 NIS.

Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Meursault-Santenots Premier Cru, 2011

A piercing shot of flint on the nose. Terrific Puligny-like acidity, with a mineral aftertaste, but despite the great focus, it lacks the depth and thrill I'd expect from a Premier Cru, especially at this price point. 550 NIS.

Domaine Matrot, Meursault Premier Cru, Perrieres, 2011

Still a blank, acidic page. Good, mute fruit, a hint of minerals, but a disappointing performance at this stage. 650 NIS.

Domaine Benoit Ente, Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru, Folatieres En La Richarde, 2012

Wow! what fantastic nose: detailed, complex, almost three dimensional in its presence. And a mouth to match, with great presence, delineation and stuffing and a savory, saline finish. 590 NIS.

Domaine Rapet, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, 2011

Flint again on the nose, which is also lightly tropical and exotic. Powerful yet balanced. Less elegant than the Benoit Ente, as I'd expect from a Grand Cru that often shows more intensity than finesse. 500 NIS.

No comments: