Thursday, January 2, 2014
For quite some time, I've been trying to taste the produce of Doron Rav-On's new lifetime winery, dedicated solely to white wines, but the opportunity kept eluding me, for various mundane reasons.
Good karma finally caught up with me, which is a relief, as these wines are subtly awesome.
White Concepts, Chardonnay, 2012
Imagine the Macon transposed over the Galil, if you will. The nose juggles flint, rainwater, apples, as well as tropical fruit, while the palate is very balanced and tasty, with a saline finish, and is all too easy to drink, in the most positive way. The way I read it, the tropical fruit is typical of Israeli Chardonnays, while the way it's reined in to highlight a mineral aspect shows Doron's confident hand and obvious skill. (Nov. 1, 2013)
White Concepts, First Page, 2012
This is a blend of aromatic grapes, which many local wineries have taken to, in one blend or another, although admittedly not in this specific combination: Pinot Gris, Semillon, Riesling. The nose has a pleasant toasty/minerally personality, with a touch of rainwater (like the Chardonnay) and a tropical fruit overlay, which is, surprisingly, a little more discrete than in the Chardonnay (as though the Semillon and Riesling tamed the Pinot Gris). The palate is balanced, elegant and pure, and finish is especially tasty and tasteful, after a few minutes of air wash away an initial bitter touch. It would be rather interesting to match this against Yaakov Oryah's Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc.(Nov. 7, 2013)
White Concepts, Sauvignon Blanc, 2012
Doron certainly keeps a very sure and reserved hand on his craft. Like its stable mates, this charms with a polished, but not flashy, exterior, at the same time presenting enough complexity for contemplation, while retaining a light touch. This presents the most mineral aspect of the trio, highlighting the grassy side of the grape (albeit with tropical hints as well), with enough kinks to avoid complacence and to evoke Old World aesthetics. (Nov. 17, 2013)
These wines cost 105 NIS at Wine Route, which I think is a fairly typical price.