Do The Loire (Dec. 15, 2013)

Photograph courtesy of the great Avi Feldstein

It took a while, but I finally got to taste Eldad Levy's new Loire portfolio in depth and breadth, at Tel Aviv's Wine Bar (a generic name if ever there was one). Hopefully, he will soon bring in more goodies, although this initial batch already makes for a couple of house wines and few wines that will cellar for quite a few years.

God bless you, Eldad!

Yannic Amirault, Bourgueil

La Coudraye, 2012

This is Amirault's entry level wine and it is very friendly and balanced indeed, without inducing the slightest bit of palate fatigue. A touch of Brett and minerals provide interest.

Grand Clos, 2010

Deeper, less approachable, taking a few swirls to open, cut from a similar cloth. More severely structured, providing ample proof to any yet uninitiated that Cabarnet Franc is no lightweight.

Petit Cave, 2010

The progression continues, evoking Bordeaux Some brett now, but not enough to overwhelm. Serious stuff.

Petit Cave, 2006

The 2006 doesn't have a whole lot more complexity than the 2010, just friendlier nd softer. Evokes Bordeaux again, but, rather surprisingly a fruity Left Bank and not the Right Bank you might expect.

Not for sale.

Chateau du Huearu, Saumur-Champigny

Tuffe, 2010

Sterner and more mineral laden than the Coudraye, its parallel in the Amirault stable. I like it more than the one I opened at home, I'm guessing the bottle at Wine Bar was opened longer.

Four a Chaux, 2010

Surprisingly, this seems more approachable than the Tuffe, the fruit here offering more substance to counteract the tannic crunch.

Lisagathe, 2010

The most austere wine of the evening, the fruit still primary, with a touch of minerals, but plenty of fine, savory  tannins.


Kelly said…
Yannic Amirault consistently provides delicious and thought provoking wine. Here in the States I consider the price a steal (usually in the mid 20s-30s).