Friday, September 6, 2013

Summer Of Riesling

Riesling walk with me
Aviram Katz brought it to Tel Aviv and this year, the Summer Of Riesling was so trendy that the city was covered with "I Love Riesling" graffitis.

But you know what?

I don't need a @#$%-ing excuse to drink Riesling!

Eldad Levy put together a Thai dinner, crafted by the talented and energetic Lilach Raveh, and paired it with (mostly) Austrian Rieslings. My report on the affair, along with other Rieslings I had the pleasure of drinking during the month long festival, makes up my Summer Of Riesling post. Enjoy!

Dr. Loosen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling Kabbinet, 2009

Spritzy and refreshing. A great poster boy for the Summer of Riesling.

Wine Route, typically about 120 NIS.



A. Margaine, Traditionelle Brut, Premier Cru, n.v. (2008)

Apples, crisp, saline, sour/sweet. Not especially refined but tasty.

229 NIS.

Salomon, Stein Terassen, 2012

Pure apples, light and very flowery.

110 NIS.

Ecker-Eckhof, Wagram, Riesling, 2012

More discrete and arguably more flowery. Slightly spritzy. Shows the earthy side of Riesling.

105 NIS.

Ecker-Eckhof, Scholsberg, Gruner Veltliner, 2012

Typical GruVe. I get it now. Riesling is Muhammad Ali, Gruner is Frazier. And I love Frazier as much as I do Ali.

100 NIS.

Ecker-Eckhof, Mordthal, Gruner Veltliner,2011

Refined and classy. There's added depth in there, along with the typical greenness of the grape. 

149 NIS.

Salomon, Undhof Kogl, Riesling, 2012

More about Austria than Riesling, with citrus, apples, flowers, chalk and flint. 

130 NIS.

Berger, Kremstal Reserve, Steingraben, Riesling, 2010

Wow! Petrol, sweet white fruit. Seems more mature than the age on the label, coming off as a seven to ten year old Spatlese, methinks. Need to get some.

150 NIS.

Schloss Gobelsburg, Tradition, Riesling, 2010

Almost Sauternes-like on the nose: same strain of funky spiciness. A bone-dry personality on the palate, that is a complete world unto itself, laced with a salinity that justifies the umami reference in US importer Terry Theise description of the wine. I suspect that the regular Gaisburg will cellar longer (or at least peak later), but this is a wow wine for sure.

210 NIS.

Thank you, Lilach!
With family at Bertie:

Peter Jakob Kuhn, Rheingau, Riesling Sekt Brut, 2010

This is still very young and unformed, all about green apples and chalk, without the brioche-led complexity that comes with bottle age. Nice and tasty, but I'd go for the 2007 if it's still available. (Aug. 16, 2013)

Giaconda, 130 NIS.

A nightcap back at home:

Dr. Loosen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Ürziger Würzgarten, Riesling Auslese, 2009

Complex and nuanced aromas and flavors of apples, nectarines, wet stones, ginger - stop  me if you've heard this one before, this shouldn't be about descriptors anyway, but rather in the aloof way it invites you to seduce it. The way it offers that elegant, airy yet intensive, mix of sweet and saline, who could resist? (Aug. 16, 2013)

Wine Route, 150-200 NIS for a half bottle.

Fritz Haag, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Brauneberger, Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2011

Apples, peaches and a classy strand of marine funk - not unlike Chablis - tempered by ginger and menthol. The palate is tart, with a hint of sweetness, and works better than what I have experienced in the past with trokcen Mosels. Ready to come out and play, displaying yet another of the multitude of facets of the Riesling world: a lot of wine to sniff and drink, light Kabinett frame and all. (Aug. 17, 2013)

Giaconda, 120 NIS. Good buy.

Now for the Alsatian candidate:

Hugel, Jubilee, Riesling, 2005

This is a wine that uses only three colors - green apples, quartz and kerosene, and celery, make that four, shades of the Spanish Inquisition! - but fashions a complex tapestry out of them. Said tapestry grips the fruit in an iron glove, releasing the fruit just enough to insinuate and tantalize. (Aug. 18, 2013)

Wine Route, 

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