Friday, September 20, 2013
Bourgogne Pioneers (Sept. 16, 2013)
My fellow Bourgogne lovers and I met up at a very small bistro that opened last year in southern Tel Aviv, called Halutzim (Pioneers) 3. A lovely place, with owners who love and understand wine - and who serve tasty food that caters to the nose, palate and heart.
Chateau du Puligny-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Folatieres, 2007
Classy and tasty, with apples and citrus fruit well complemented by minerals and a light kiss of integrated oak. Sweet, but not overripe, with good structure. The best I've had from this otherwise annoying domaine, and very faithful to its terroir (I guessed Puligny, although I wasn't experienced enough to recognize the vineyard).
Simon Bize, Savigny-Les-Beaune Premier Cru, Les Talmettes, 2007
Sappy fruit with a prominent mineral overlay. Young and uncomplicated, albeit its complexity increases with air. A tasty wine with only a hint of frills that hovers at just the correct side of sweetness, although its indifferent structure works against any signifcant wow factor.
Jean Grivot, Nuits-St.-Georges, Aux Lavieres, 2008
Complex animalistic/mineralistic aromatics and a very tasty palate that impresses with its depth with quasi premier cru level complexity.
Etienne de Montille, Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru, Aux Thorey, 2005
Game, roasted minerals with just a touch of spices. The red fruit turns into black fruit with air at a loss of enjoyment, to the point where it is strangely and surprisingly New World. Two tiers below the Grivot villages in quality and enjoyment. My bottle, and I'm not too proud of the fact, but in my defense, it seemed much more subtle and interesting when I tasted it four years ago.
Serafin, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, 2004
Complex, deep, fresh, with a tantalizing earthy vein as well as sweat and spices. A juicy acidity that doesn't overwhelm, instead caressing on the finish.